The Gym Boulder’s Guide to Preventing Lower Body Injuries While Jumping/Landing/Falling
Are you sending hard only to jump off and twist your ankle and/or knee? Day 1 in the boulder gym we all learn proper falling technique, “gently land with your knees bent and roll to your butt…” but… how many of us actually do that on a regular basis..? Unless you down-climb 100% of [...]
Footwork Techniques to Prevent or Reduce Bunion Pain
You begin reading the route, noting all the tiny footholds you will have to balance on. You imagine placing your weight on those holds, and dread begins to set in as you prepare yourself for the ache that will come. As you begin the climb, you consciously guard against putting too much weight on [...]
Cardiovascular Training for Rock Climbers
You’re on a week-long climbing trip to Smith Rock State Park with your gym friends, psyched on trying to send your big project after a winter of good training in the gym. You climb hard for three days, almost sending the climb but stuck on the second to last move. Feeling your raw fingers [...]
The ultimate guide to help you return to rock climbing
An evidence-based, structured, and measurable framework for returning to climbing safely and effectively. So you’ve gotten the clearance to return to climbing. Great news! Being away from climbing for either an injury or other life circumstances can be such a hard mental battle and there’s a good chance you’re more psyched than ever to [...]
Tendons: do I load it or rest it?
Tendons are a hot topic in the climbing world and with good reason. The first and most important question when it comes to tendon pain is: should I rest it or load it?
Into the “Core” of Climbing
Have you hit a plateau in your climbing and are trying to figure out what to work on? Have you ever wondered if you need to include core training in order to reach that next level? Climbing is often considered a whole-body activity that works a lot of different muscle groups in the body, [...]