Feel Your Feet: Building Better Ankle Proprioception for Climbers
Picture this: You’re at your home crag with your new climbing friend and about to show them your long-term slab project. This slab is your nemesis, The crux involves horrible foot holds, nothing for your hands, and your feet keep slipping off the boulder. You show your friend the beta and fall off like you [...]
Hangboarding: Risk vs. Reward
This article is not meant to be prescriptive, but to instead provide information to help guide your decision-making when forming a training program for yourself. But for those who are looking for more specific guidance, here are my recommendations.
Hamstring Injury in Rock Climbers
You’re climbing your project, and you have a high heel hook set on a big hold. The next hold looks far but your heel feels secure so you pull on it hard, locking off on your hand holds. As you release one of your hands to reach for the next hold, you feel a sudden [...]
Hypermobility: Strength or Weakness?
How many of us have read an article online, received a pop-up ad on the computer, or even been told by a doctor that we need to stretch more? Odds are, probably most of the population has received this message in one way or another. In a time where yoga and new age stretching studios [...]
Elite Climbers: Your Iceberg Profile and Why It Matters
Climbing, to no one’s surprise, is hard. However, more people are drawn to sport climbing and bouldering than ever before. Climbing itself is not new to the realm of sports; in fact its origins date back to a necessity for survival among the people living in the Alps. Its recreational history isn’t relatively modern either; [...]
The Climber’s Guide to Pull-Ups: Biomechanics, Variations, and Injury Insights
Walk up at any climbing gym and you will certainly see people performing all kinds of pull-ups. Straight, inclined, supinated or pronated grip, on rings or on microscopic crimps: the possibilities are endless when it comes to climbers training hard on pull-ups. But which way is right for you? It’s easy to get lost [...]