Training With Limited Time
You finally do it, you book a week long trip to the most scenic outdoor place you read about in one of Jimmy Chin’s instagram posts. You drop a non-refundable deposit to help motivate a stepped up training plan and get to work on booking out climbing partners for the next two months before your [...]
What 105 Youth Climbers Told Us About Finger Injuries, Awareness, and Seeking Medical Care
You’re 13 years old and enjoy climbing. The thing you look forward to most each day at school is going rock climbing after classes end. Classes finally end, you go to your home gym for practice as a young competitor who has just reached the minimum age for the competition. After practice, you try [...]
Return to Rock Climbing After ACL Reconstruction
In this Rock Rehab Community lecture, physical therapists Jared Vagy and Sammi Iannucci join us to break down the first climbing-specific approach to returning to the wall after ACL reconstruction; drawing on the only two peer-reviewed papers on the topic, both of which are included at the bottom of this article. The article covers [...]
Test Your Climbing Movement: 5 Challenges from The Resilient Climber
Climbing is not just about finger strength. It is a full-body sport that requires mobility, strength, control, endurance, and the ability to move well in awkward positions. In this article, you will learn five simple movement challenges adapted from The Resilient Climber: Strength, Mobility, and Injury Prevention. Each one connects to a key climbing [...]
Hangboarding Protocols For Beginners
When should you start hangboarding? After climbing for a year? Once you can climb V6? Never? These are all common opinions in the climbing community, but why is that? The root of each of these arguments each seem to stem from the belief that hangboarding will cause injuries in newer climbers. I disagree with [...]
Feel Your Feet: Building Better Ankle Proprioception for Climbers
Picture this: You’re at your home crag with your new climbing friend and about to show them your long-term slab project. This slab is your nemesis, The crux involves horrible foot holds, nothing for your hands, and your feet keep slipping off the boulder. You show your friend the beta and fall off like you [...]