Returning To The Fingerboard After A Finger Injury
When a finger is injured, the goal is not simply to avoid loading it. The goal is to find a way to load it that the tissue can tolerate, then gradually build capacity across the grips, positions, and forces climbing demands. A fingerboard can make that process more precise. Rather than guessing whether a [...]
BFR for Climbers with Shoulder Pain
You are on the last move of your proj of 2 years and in the perfect drop knee, reaching overhead to a gnarly crimp that’s going to send you to a godsent jug to top out…but as you hit the crimp your other hand slips. Most of the weight now on your one arm, [...]
Training With Limited Time
You finally do it, you book a week long trip to the most scenic outdoor place you read about in one of Jimmy Chin’s instagram posts. You drop a non-refundable deposit to help motivate a stepped up training plan and get to work on booking out climbing partners for the next two months before your [...]
What 105 Youth Climbers Told Us About Finger Injuries, Awareness, and Seeking Medical Care
You’re 13 years old and enjoy climbing. The thing you look forward to most each day at school is going rock climbing after classes end. Classes finally end, you go to your home gym for practice as a young competitor who has just reached the minimum age for the competition. After practice, you try [...]
Return to Rock Climbing After ACL Reconstruction
In this Rock Rehab Community lecture, physical therapists Jared Vagy and Sammi Iannucci join us to break down the first climbing-specific approach to returning to the wall after ACL reconstruction; drawing on the only two peer-reviewed papers on the topic, both of which are included at the bottom of this article. The article covers [...]
Test Your Climbing Movement: 5 Challenges from The Resilient Climber
Climbing is not just about finger strength. It is a full-body sport that requires mobility, strength, control, endurance, and the ability to move well in awkward positions. In this article, you will learn five simple movement challenges adapted from The Resilient Climber: Strength, Mobility, and Injury Prevention. Each one connects to a key climbing [...]