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SLAP’d with a Shoulder Injury?

SLAP’d with a Shoulder Injury? Karen Hsu Physical Therapy Karen Hsu, PT, DPT Image: unsplash.com Introduction In recent years, rock climbing as a sport has experienced a large increase in popularity. As more people have started climbing, so have injury rates grown. Today, the nature of these injuries are mostly due to overuse and mostly [...]

By | July 2nd, 2018|Uncategorized|1 Comment

Low Back Pain and Rock Climbing

A Pain in the Back Karen Hsu Physical Therapy Karen Hsu, PT, DPT unsplash.com Introduction Are you having back pain after climbing for hours on end? Or, maybe you get back pain intermittently when you are in certain positions, after you’ve done multiple sit starts, while bouldering, or high stepping. You are not [...]

By | March 31st, 2018|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Long Term Athlete Development

Long Term Athlete Development I am honored to be involved in the development of Canada's Long Term Athlete Development document for Sport Climbing. Although my role was mostly consultative, I am extremely proud of the work. The document is the foundation for athlete development in both recreational and competitive indoor climbing. Climb for Life was [...]

By | January 7th, 2018|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric testing and PAP for coaches.

Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric Testing and PAP for Coaches. Camp4 Human Performance Tyler Nelson DC, MS, CSCS @C4HP Introduction: Performance at the crag or in a competition is a direct representation of athlete preparation. Preparation includes both the cognitive and physical capacities of an athlete. Unfortunately it is hard to predict [...]

By | January 1st, 2018|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Pulley Injuries Explained – Part 2

Author’s Note: Greetings everyone, I just wanted to write a quick note to apologize for the delay in Part 2 of the Pulley Series. For the last few months I have been studying for my PT Board exam and haven’t been writing much. But the hard work paid off! I recently passed my Boards [...]

By | December 3rd, 2017|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries

Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries Written by William Bateman Edited by: Nina Tappin For a long time I dropped things, mostly smaller items like car keys. I also suffered from phantom pains. The tip of my finger itched even though it wasn’t there. - Tommy Caldwell, The Push Image from www.quora.com It [...]

By | November 5th, 2017|Uncategorized|2 Comments