About theclimbingdoctor

The Climbing Doctor is passionate about preventing injuries and improving performance for all climbers.

Long Term Athlete Development

Long Term Athlete Development I am honored to be involved in the development of Canada's Long Term Athlete Development document for Sport Climbing. Although my role was mostly consultative, I am extremely proud of the work. The document is the foundation for athlete development in both recreational and competitive indoor climbing. Climb for Life [...]

By | 2018-01-07T12:55:46+00:00 January 7th, 2018|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric testing and PAP for coaches.

Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric Testing and PAP for Coaches. Camp4 Human Performance Tyler Nelson DC, MS, CSCS @C4HP Introduction: Performance at the crag or in a competition is a direct representation of athlete preparation. Preparation includes both the cognitive and physical capacities of an athlete. Unfortunately it is hard to [...]

By | 2018-01-01T09:07:20+00:00 January 1st, 2018|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries

Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries Written by William Bateman Edited by: Nina Tappin For a long time I dropped things, mostly smaller items like car keys. I also suffered from phantom pains. The tip of my finger itched even though it wasn’t there. - Tommy Caldwell, The Push Image from www.quora.com [...]

By | 2017-11-07T18:11:03+00:00 November 5th, 2017|Uncategorized|0 Comments

More For Less: What Every Climber Wants

More For Less: What Every Climber Wants Using Blood Flow Restriction Training To Improve Forearm Capacity Tyler Nelson DC, MS, CSCS Camp4 Human Performance Background Blood flow restriction training (BFRT) is a technique originally created in Japan under the title Kaatsu by Yoshiaki Sato in the 1970’s. Since that time the [...]

By | 2017-07-20T11:27:06+00:00 July 8th, 2017|Uncategorized|2 Comments

How Shoulder Mobility Affects Your Climbing

How Shoulder Mobility Affects Your Climbing Do you have pain between your shoulder blades after climbing? Do you have trouble reaching your arms fully overhead? Do you find yourself slouching with your shoulders rotated inward?   You might have poor shoulder mobility. The areas that generally limit shoulder mobility in climbers are: The [...]

By | 2017-07-08T13:12:59+00:00 July 8th, 2017|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Thoracic Mobility For Climbers

Thoracic Spine Mobility for Climbers By Matt DeStefano Rationale: In order to climb at your highest level and pain-free, you must have adequate mobility throughout your body. This article speaks specifically to mobility in the thoracic spine. The thoracic spine is the group of spinal segments below your neck and above your low [...]

By | 2017-07-20T11:25:59+00:00 June 4th, 2017|Uncategorized|3 Comments

Route Setting to Prevent Climbing Injury

Recently, "The Climbing Doctor" had the chance to connect with Chris Danielson, who is one the most renowned American route setters. This was a unique opportunity to see the behind the scenes thought processes that goes into competition route setting and how the same methodology can be applied to route setting for non-competition climbers in the gym . The thought process [...]

By | 2017-05-09T05:34:57+00:00 May 8th, 2017|Uncategorized|3 Comments

Balanced Climbing Shoulders

Balanced Climbing Shoulders By Tanya Anne Mackenzie PhD (Specialist shoulder and elbow physiotherapist) Balanced muscles around the shoulder are essential for climbing efficiency as well as to avoid uneven tension around the joint. Imbalance in muscles around joints leads to increased strain and stress in the soft tissues and can ultimately lead to [...]

By | 2017-03-16T19:56:00+00:00 February 9th, 2017|Uncategorized|1 Comment