The Climbing Doctor connected with Dr. Tom Hackett MD to discuss various topics related to the shoulder, labral tears, and rock climbing. See below for a recording of the video and the complete transcript. Dr. Tom Hackett’s Bio A leader in complex knee, shoulder, and elbow surgeries, Dr. Hackett provides [...]
In this article, we will take a look at how to test finger strength with the arm fixated, using tension and compression-based dynamometry. See below for a complete video walking through a step-by-step process of how to test no hang finger strength. What Does The Research Say? Fixated strength testing [...]
In the current era of training for climbing, finger strength is all the rage. A quick Google search will turn up no less than a dozen hangboarding protocols, with countless Reddit threads discussing each of them ad nauseam.
You’re noticing improvements in your climbing, but you are starting to feel a bit broken down and are developing some mild pain in the front of your elbow that worsens after a long week of training and climbing. You even notice a bit of swelling in your elbow. What should you do?
Body tension from a functional perspective can be described as a balance of generated internal forces from several muscle groups working in unison to meet or exceed external resistance (like gravity). Climbing-specific body tension is both an outcome of functional skill and strength.
As climbing becomes larger and more popular, climbing injuries will become more and more prevalent not only among the veterans, but also among newcomers. A simple google search will find hundreds of strengthening and stretching programs promising to bulletproof your shoulder, ankle, knee, etc…
De Quervain’s is typically caused by overuse or an increase in repetitive activity, characterized by pain and tenderness at the base of the thumb. Within this region lies two tendons: the extensor pollicis brevis (EPB) and abductor pollicis longus (APL).
Kids are not just small adults. Their bodies differ in anatomy, psychology, and skeletal maturity. Due to these differences, it is essential to understand youth athletes’ perceptions on injury and safe training practices in order to reduce the incidence of injuries.
Most climbers would agree that improving their footwork is necessary to send more. The moment your feet leave the wall generally indicates you are either: dyno-ing, your feet have cut and your climb has now turned into a campus, or you are falling.
Rock climbing is a sport that requires precise technique. Being able to stay on the wall and not “barn-door” or fall off may be due to shifting your hips just a little bit to the right or swinging one foot out to the side for a flag. In this article you will learn about climbing movement.