Tell a non-climbing friend that you’ve got a sore finger and they might not be too sympathetic. For us as climbers, on the other hand, such an injury can feel disastrous. And that makes absolute sense.
While upper body strength often takes the spotlight in discussions about rock climbing, the significance of lower body flexibility should not be underestimated. In this blog post, we will discuss the role that flexibility in the lower body plays in enhancing a climber's performance. Understanding and prioritizing lower body flexibility will assist in [...]
Climbing is a sport that requires not only physical strength but also mobility and stability in various body parts. One area that often gets overlooked but plays a crucial role in climbing is the wrists. In this blog post, we'll delve into the significance of wrist mobility, stability, and strength for climbers. We'll [...]
These are many different types of foot and toe injuries that climbers may encounter. The primary mechanism of almost all of these injuries is shoe fit. Many climbers, particularly those with higher ability, climb with shoes that are smaller than their feet.
This video serves as a supplement to the article on climbing movement performance assessments featured on Medbridge. Climbing requires a delicate balance of strength, power, endurance, mobility, and control.
A Spanish Translation of the research article "Clinical Management of Finger Joint Capsulitis/Synovitis in a Rock Climber." Article written by Dr. Jared Vagy DPT “The Climbing Doctor” and translated by Alita Contreras. Original article below: Click here to read the full article in English Resumen Este estudio de caso presenta a un escalador [...]
This interview focuses on discussing DIP joint pain in climbers. Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and [...]
In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and [...]
In this interview The Climbing Doctor talks with world class trainer and climber, Patrick Matros. Patrick holds a master's degree in sport and educational sciences, is the author of two climbing books, including the worldwide bestseller GimmeKraft!, and has trained some of the top climbers in the world, such as Alex Megos and [...]
Arno Ilgner is a distinguished rock climber and first ascensionist, perhaps most well known as the author of The Rock Warrior's Way. Through his best selling work, Arno outlines his methodologies emphasizing mental training to help his students and readers improve their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within [...]