In the current era of training for climbing, finger strength is all the rage. A quick Google search will turn up no less than a dozen hangboarding protocols, with countless Reddit threads discussing each of them ad nauseam.
As climbing becomes larger and more popular, climbing injuries will become more and more prevalent not only among the veterans, but also among newcomers. A simple google search will find hundreds of strengthening and stretching programs promising to bulletproof your shoulder, ankle, knee, etc…
You’re noticing improvements in your climbing, but you are starting to feel a bit broken down and are developing some mild pain in the front of your elbow that worsens after a long week of training and climbing. You even notice a bit of swelling in your elbow. What should you do?
Body tension from a functional perspective can be described as a balance of generated internal forces from several muscle groups working in unison to meet or exceed external resistance (like gravity). Climbing-specific body tension is both an outcome of functional skill and strength.
Kids are not just small adults. Their bodies differ in anatomy, psychology, and skeletal maturity. Due to these differences, it is essential to understand youth athletes’ perceptions on injury and safe training practices in order to reduce the incidence of injuries.
De Quervain’s is typically caused by overuse or an increase in repetitive activity, characterized by pain and tenderness at the base of the thumb. Within this region lies two tendons: the extensor pollicis brevis (EPB) and abductor pollicis longus (APL).
Most climbers would agree that improving their footwork is necessary to send more. The moment your feet leave the wall generally indicates you are either: dyno-ing, your feet have cut and your climb has now turned into a campus, or you are falling.
Rock climbing is a sport that requires precise technique. Being able to stay on the wall and not “barn-door” or fall off may be due to shifting your hips just a little bit to the right or swinging one foot out to the side for a flag. In this article you will learn about climbing movement.
This article will take you through a step-by-step process of how to fabricate a pulley protection splint for a rock climber with a grade II or III pulley sprain. The purpose of the article is to educate the climber as well as the medical practitioner on the details of constructing a pulley protection splint.
You are standing at the base of a route at your climbing gym. You notice wide stemming moves, high heel hooks and large step throughs. Looking up at the intricate sequences, you start to think maybe the route was set by a Cirque de Soleil performer. But you decide to give it a [...]