You stick the crux crimp on your project. It’s the hold. Your fingers wrap perfectly around each ridge but, as you start to lock off, your pinky peels off. Instantly, the position changes because of this unwanted move and the hold feels smaller while the lock-off feels harder. You try again next burn. [...]
As climbers, we push our bodies to the limit—pulling, gripping, and hanging from tiny holds, often in challenging conditions. With all the power and endurance required for climbing, it's no surprise that tendon injuries are some of the most common ailments in our sport. Whether it's a nagging shoulder pain, Achilles tendinopathy, or [...]
You are on the last move of your proj of 2 years and in the perfect drop knee, reaching overhead to a gnarly crimp that’s going to send you to a godsent jug to top out…but as you hit the crimp your other hand slips. Most of the weight now on your one [...]
You finally do it, you book a week long trip to the most scenic outdoor place you read about in one of Jimmy Chin’s instagram posts. You drop a non-refundable deposit to help motivate a stepped up training plan and get to work on booking out climbing partners for the next two months before [...]
You’re 13 years old and enjoy climbing. The thing you look forward to most each day at school is going rock climbing after classes end. Classes finally end, you go to your home gym for practice as a young competitor who has just reached the minimum age for the competition. After practice, you [...]
When should you start hangboarding? After climbing for a year? Once you can climb V6? Never? These are all common opinions in the climbing community, but why is that? The root of each of these arguments each seem to stem from the belief that hangboarding will cause injuries in newer climbers. I disagree [...]
Picture this: You’re at your home crag with your new climbing friend and about to show them your long-term slab project. This slab is your nemesis, The crux involves horrible foot holds, nothing for your hands, and your feet keep slipping off the boulder. You show your friend the beta and fall off like [...]
This article is not meant to be prescriptive, but to instead provide information to help guide your decision-making when forming a training program for yourself. But for those who are looking for more specific guidance, here are my recommendations.
You’re climbing your project, and you have a high heel hook set on a big hold. The next hold looks far but your heel feels secure so you pull on it hard, locking off on your hand holds. As you release one of your hands to reach for the next hold, you feel a [...]
How many of us have read an article online, received a pop-up ad on the computer, or even been told by a doctor that we need to stretch more? Odds are, probably most of the population has received this message in one way or another. In a time where yoga and new age stretching [...]