Long Head of the Biceps Tendinopathy
You have been working on your project for some time – maybe getting stuck on a burly sequence on that magical line you’ve been hoping to send. Every time you give the project a go, [...]
Low Back Injuries in Boulderers: Preventative Measures for Chronic Low Back Pain
You’ve finally finished packing your car for that big camping and climbing trip and cannot wait to get on the road to the campground. After a 4 hour drive, you start to pull up to the campsite and notice the sun is starting to go down…
Hang-Boarding Prehab Routine For Intermediate Climbers
You are climbing on your project for the third time this week and you are getting closer to the crux. The pump clock is ticking so you frantically throw for that tiny crimp that [...]
Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) Training for Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers
Ever had your foot slip on a crimp while climbing and felt a pop or tweak in your finger? Pulley (or annular ligament) injuries are one of the most common types of injuries that rock [...]
Dr. Tom Hackett MD on Labral Injuries
The Climbing Doctor connected with Dr. Tom Hackett MD to discuss various topics related to the shoulder, labral tears, and rock climbing. See below for a recording of the video and the complete transcript. [...]
New Knee Pains for Climbers: How to Prevent and Recover from Meniscus Injury
There was a large competition over the weekend and the gym is now open for you and full of new climbs. It’s time to send those competition problems! With a mix of abstract moves, [...]
No Hang Finger Strength Testing for Climbers
In this article, we will take a look at how to test finger strength with the arm fixated, using tension and compression-based dynamometry. See below for a complete video walking through a step-by-step process [...]
TFCC injury- A common source of wrist pain in climbers
Wrist pain— something that almost every climber experiences at some point in their climbing career. Often times it starts off as just a tweak—a slight pain that we tend to ignore. Nothing extremely painful [...]
Ouch! I Feel A Pinch In My Shoulder!
You’re almost to the top of a boulder problem that you have been projecting all week at the gym. You just need to overcome a tricky mantle to top out. You pull the move [...]
Improving Ankle Stability for More Successful Climbing
Your body is tense as you strain against gravity’s forceful embrace to finally summit the boulder problem you’ve been diligently working on these past three weeks. As you reach for the last hold your [...]