Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) Training for Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers
Ever had your foot slip on a crimp while climbing and felt a pop or tweak in your finger? Pulley (or annular ligament) injuries are one of the most common types of injuries that rock [...]
Dr. Tom Hackett MD on Labral Injuries
The Climbing Doctor connected with Dr. Tom Hackett MD to discuss various topics related to the shoulder, labral tears, and rock climbing. See below for a recording of the video and the complete transcript. [...]
New Knee Pains for Climbers: How to Prevent and Recover from Meniscus Injury
There was a large competition over the weekend and the gym is now open for you and full of new climbs. It’s time to send those competition problems! With a mix of abstract moves, [...]
No Hang Finger Strength Testing for Climbers
In this article, we will take a look at how to test finger strength with the arm fixated, using tension and compression-based dynamometry. See below for a complete video walking through a step-by-step process [...]
TFCC injury- A common source of wrist pain in climbers
Wrist pain— something that almost every climber experiences at some point in their climbing career. Often times it starts off as just a tweak—a slight pain that we tend to ignore. Nothing extremely painful [...]
Ouch! I Feel A Pinch In My Shoulder!
You’re almost to the top of a boulder problem that you have been projecting all week at the gym. You just need to overcome a tricky mantle to top out. You pull the move [...]
Improving Ankle Stability for More Successful Climbing
Your body is tense as you strain against gravity’s forceful embrace to finally summit the boulder problem you’ve been diligently working on these past three weeks. As you reach for the last hold your [...]
Triple Flexion Training for Climbers
In the current era of training for climbing, finger strength is all the rage. A quick Google search will turn up no less than a dozen hangboarding protocols, with countless Reddit threads discussing each of them ad nauseam.
Clunk: Shoulder Instability Climbing
You hear it and feel it. Your shoulder popped in and out of the socket yet again. Going out and overhead to the next hold. Making contact with that jug at the end of the dyno. Pushing up and over the mantle.
Ulnar Nerve Entrapment In Rock Climbers
You’ve made huge strides in your climbing ability since you touched that first hold a couple of years ago. Now, you’ve got your sights on the next grade, but you’ve hit a plateau. You decide to train 5-6 days a week to get stronger for climbing.