How To Rehab a Climbing Finger Pulley Injury
In this post, we’ll review the rehabilitation guidelines for a pulley sprain. Based on the research by Lutter and colleagues as well as Cooper and colleagues. First, lets review the grading of an injury with ultrasound from a study by Lutter and colleagues. As you can see in the table below, pulley injuries [...]
Climbing Performance Mobility Assessment
When assessing climbing performance, we look at strength, power, endurance, mobility, and control. In this article, we’ll discuss mobility. Look at the two different movements in the photos below, both of which are high steps. On the left, Jon Cardwell performs a high step rock-up, rocking his weight over his foot. The photo on [...]
Dr. Tom Hackett MD on Labral Injuries
The Climbing Doctor connected with Dr. Tom Hackett MD to discuss various topics related to the shoulder, labral tears, and rock climbing. See below for a recording of the video and the complete transcript. 0:00 Start 1:41 Advanced Training of Fellowship Surgeons 4:18 Understanding the Anatomy of the Shoulder and Labrum 14:34 [...]
New Knee Pains for Climbers: How to Prevent and Recover from Meniscus Injury
There was a large competition over the weekend and the gym is now open for you and full of new climbs. It’s time to send those competition problems! With a mix of abstract moves, crazy high steps, intense drop knees, and tricky but necessary heel hooks, these aren’t your typical climbs. You’re feeling strong, [...]
No Hang Finger Strength Testing for Climbers
In this article, we will take a look at how to test finger strength with the arm fixated, using tension and compression-based dynamometry. See below for a complete video walking through a step-by-step process of how to test no hang finger strength. What Does The Research Say? Fixated strength testing for [...]
TFCC injury- A common source of wrist pain in climbers
Wrist pain— something that almost every climber experiences at some point in their climbing career. Often times it starts off as just a tweak—a slight pain that we tend to ignore. Nothing extremely painful and certainly nothing that would stop us from trying to send our latest project. But as we keep climbing the [...]