No Hang Finger Strength Testing for Climbers
In this article, we will take a look at how to test finger strength with the arm fixated, using tension and compression-based dynamometry. See below for a complete video walking through a step-by-step process of how to test no hang finger strength. What Does The Research Say? Fixated strength testing for [...]
TFCC injury- A common source of wrist pain in climbers
Wrist pain— something that almost every climber experiences at some point in their climbing career. Often times it starts off as just a tweak—a slight pain that we tend to ignore. Nothing extremely painful and certainly nothing that would stop us from trying to send our latest project. But as we keep climbing the [...]
Ouch! I Feel A Pinch In My Shoulder!
You’re almost to the top of a boulder problem that you have been projecting all week at the gym. You just need to overcome a tricky mantle to top out. You pull the move and hoist yourself up over the top. But before you can celebrate your send, you become aware of a tiny [...]
Improving Ankle Stability for More Successful Climbing
Your body is tense as you strain against gravity’s forceful embrace to finally summit the boulder problem you’ve been diligently working on these past three weeks. As you reach for the last hold your right foot suddenly slips out from under you, sending you tumbling to the ground… again. Once the frustration clears, you [...]
Triple Flexion Flexibility Training for Climbers
In the current era of training for climbing, finger strength is all the rage. A quick Google search will turn up no less than a dozen hangboarding protocols, with countless Reddit threads discussing each of them ad nauseam.
Clunk: Shoulder Instability Climbing
You hear it and feel it. Your shoulder popped in and out of the socket yet again. Going out and overhead to the next hold. Making contact with that jug at the end of the dyno. Pushing up and over the mantle.