Physical Performance Testing in Climbing
Below is a published article in the peer reviewed open access journal: Frontiers in Sports and Active Living. It was written by Kaja Langer, Christian Simon, and Josef Wiemeyer and is titled: Physical performance testing in climbing—A systematic review Article abstract: Due to the increasing popularity of climbing, the corresponding diagnostics are gaining in [...]
Clinical Management of Finger Joint Capsulitis/Synovitis in a Rock Climber
Below is a published article in the peer reviewed open access journal: Frontiers in Sports and Active Living. It was written by Dr. Jared Vagy DPT “The Climbing Doctor” and is titled: Clinical Management of Finger Joint Capsulitis/Synovitis in a Rock Climber. This case study presents a 23-year-old male recreational rock climber, who climbed [...]
DIP Joint Pain
Joint pain is part of life as a rock climber, and so much emphasis is placed on finger pulley and flexor tendon injuries, but what about the other side of the finger? Our fingertips are our initial and primary link to the rock and the distal interphalangeal joint (DIP) gets the brunt of the [...]
Climb On after a Concussion
By Stacey Castaldo, SPT, CSCS It was just another day at the climbing gym, I’d done a couple warm-up routes, and now I was just starting up a new 5.12 in a shallow corner. I high-clipped the second bolt, and began reading my next move; it wasn’t immediately intuitive. The next hand was quite a [...]
Foot Pain Climbing: Choose the Right Shoe
You’re at your local sports store eyeing all the beautiful climbing shoes you probably don’t need (but definitely want). You quickly envision yourself climbing in new shoes – climbing better than you’ve ever climbed before and perhaps, even sending your long-term project. You try on an aggressive shoe, down-turned and stiff with [...]
Capsulitis and Synovitis Climbing – Swelling of the Fingers
Saturday morning—finally time to get back on your project. You stretch out in bed and slowly open your hands. They feel stiff and sore, you look at your swollen finger joints wondering what's going on. For the last couple of months, you’ve ramped up your training to be ready for your project. You’ve noticed [...]