• Kids are not just small adults. Their bodies differ in anatomy, psychology, and skeletal maturity. Due to these differences, it is essential to understand youth athletes’ perceptions on injury and safe training practices in order to reduce the incidence of injuries.

  • There are a myriad of upper extremity injuries that we can discuss, but we are going to focus on one shoulder injury here—the SLAP tear. A SLAP tear is an injury in which the top of the cartilaginous ring surrounding your shoulder joint is torn.

  • Most climbers would agree that improving their footwork is necessary to send more. The moment your feet leave the wall generally indicates you are either: dyno-ing, your feet have cut and your climb has now turned into a campus, or you are falling.

  • Are you having back pain after climbing for hours on end? Or, maybe you get back pain intermittently when you are in certain positions, after you’ve done multiple sit starts, while bouldering, or high stepping. You are not alone.

  • In medicine there is a Bio-Psycho-Social model of health which encompasses an individual’s Biology, Psychology and Social factors and how these factors influence an individual’s sense of well-being. This articles looks at these perspectives after a climbing accident.

  • I am honored to be involved in the development of Canada’s Long Term Athlete Development document for Sport Climbing. Although my role was mostly consultative, I am extremely […]

  • Rock climbing is a sport that requires precise technique. Being able to stay on the wall and not “barn-door” or fall off may be due to shifting your hips just a little bit to the right or swinging one foot out to the side for a flag. In this article you will learn about climbing movement.

  • Performance at the crag or in a competition is a direct representation of athlete preparation. Preparation includes both the cognitive and physical capacities of an athlete. Unfortunately it is hard to predict which one is more important on any given day and between athletes on the same team.

  • This article will take you through a step-by-step process of how to fabricate a pulley protection splint for a rock climber with a grade II or III pulley sprain. The purpose of the article is to educate the climber as well as the medical practitioner on the details of constructing a pulley protection splint.

  • Pulleys are ligaments. A sprain/strain describes a stretch or partial tear of a ligament (“strain” is usually reserved for injuries to a muscle or tendon, but some of the literature mentions a strain of the pulley). A pulley rupture is a complete tear of the ligament, where no part of the tissue remains in contact with the other side. Now that you have an understanding of the terminology, let’s discuss specifics.