More For Less: What Every Climber Wants
This articles explores using blood flow restriction training to improve forearm capacity. Blood flow restriction training (BFRT) is a technique originally created in Japan under the title Kaatsu by Yoshiaki Sato in the 1970’s. Since that time the therapy has accumulated hundreds of research papers supporting its effectiveness. There are a dozen or so [...]
Rock Climbing Injury Tips: Nerve Mobility
Imagine that you are belaying your climbing partner and they are stuck at the crux. They keep climbing up and down-climbing but they aren’t going anywhere. You look at your belay device and you see the rope glide back and forth, gaining either more tension or slack. This is how nerves move throughout in your body.
How Shoulder Mobility Affects Your Climbing
Do you have pain between your shoulder blades after climbing? Do you have trouble reaching your arms fully overhead? Do you find yourself slouching with your shoulders rotated inward?  You might have poor shoulder mobility.
Rock Climbing Injury Tips: Antagonist Strength Exercises
Professional Climber Sasha Digiulian shows you the five best antagonist exercises to prevent climbing injury. It is important to strengthen the antagonist muscles in your body to increase strength, improve body symmetry and prevent injury.
Thoracic Mobility For Climbers
In order to climb at your highest level and pain-free, you must have adequate mobility throughout your body. This article speaks specifically to mobility in the thoracic spine. The thoracic spine is the group of spinal segments below your neck and above your low back.
Route Setting to Prevent Climbing Injury
Recently, "The Climbing Doctor" had the chance to connect with Chris Danielson, who is one the most renowned American route setters. This was a unique opportunity to see the behind the scenes thought processes that goes into competition route setting and how the same methodology can be applied to route setting for non-competition climbers in the gym . The thought process behind [...]