Hangboarding Protocols For Beginners
When should you start hangboarding? After climbing for a year? Once you can climb V6? Never? These are all common opinions in the climbing community, but why is that? The root of each of these arguments each seem to stem from the belief that hangboarding will cause injuries in newer climbers. I disagree with [...]
Feel Your Feet: Building Better Ankle Proprioception for Climbers
Picture this: You’re at your home crag with your new climbing friend and about to show them your long-term slab project. This slab is your nemesis, The crux involves horrible foot holds, nothing for your hands, and your feet keep slipping off the boulder. You show your friend the beta and fall off like you [...]
Hangboarding: Risk vs. Reward
This article is not meant to be prescriptive, but to instead provide information to help guide your decision-making when forming a training program for yourself. But for those who are looking for more specific guidance, here are my recommendations.
Hamstring Injury in Rock Climbers
You’re climbing your project, and you have a high heel hook set on a big hold. The next hold looks far but your heel feels secure so you pull on it hard, locking off on your hand holds. As you release one of your hands to reach for the next hold, you feel a sudden [...]
Hypermobility: Strength or Weakness?
How many of us have read an article online, received a pop-up ad on the computer, or even been told by a doctor that we need to stretch more? Odds are, probably most of the population has received this message in one way or another. In a time where yoga and new age stretching studios [...]
Elite Climbers: Your Iceberg Profile and Why It Matters
Climbing, to no one’s surprise, is hard. However, more people are drawn to sport climbing and bouldering than ever before. Climbing itself is not new to the realm of sports; in fact its origins date back to a necessity for survival among the people living in the Alps. Its recreational history isn’t relatively modern either; [...]