Rock Climbing Injury Tips: Finger Extensor Strengthening
Dr. Jared Vagy DPT shows you how to modify your finger strengthening exercises to improve their rock climbing specificity and help prevent common finger injuries such as a pulley sprain.
Long Term Athlete Development
I am honored to be involved in the development of Canada's Long Term Athlete Development document for Sport Climbing. Although my role was mostly consultative, I am extremely proud of the work. The document is the foundation for athlete development in both recreational and competitive indoor climbing. Climb for Life was initiated in [...]
Pulley Protection Splint
This article will take you through a step-by-step process of how to fabricate a pulley protection splint for a rock climber with a grade II or III pulley sprain. The purpose of the article is to educate the climber as well as the medical practitioner on the details of constructing a pulley protection splint.
Rock Climbing Injury Tips: Spine Stretching
You are standing at the base of a route at your climbing gym. You notice wide stemming moves, high heel hooks and large step throughs. Looking up at the intricate sequences, you start to think maybe the route was set by a Cirque de Soleil performer.
Rock Climbing Injury Tips: Shoulder Taping
Professional Climber Josh Levin shows you the best way to tape your shoulder back into a better alignment. But remember, the taping is just temporary to align your shoulder blade and decrease pain.
Rock Climbing Injury Tips: Nerve Mobility
Imagine that you are belaying your climbing partner and they are stuck at the crux. They keep climbing up and down-climbing but they aren’t going anywhere. You look at your belay device and you see the rope glide back and forth, gaining either more tension or slack. This is how nerves move throughout in your body.
Rock Climbing Injury Tips: Antagonist Strength Exercises
Professional Climber Sasha Digiulian shows you the five best antagonist exercises to prevent climbing injury. It is important to strengthen the antagonist muscles in your body to increase strength, improve body symmetry and prevent injury.
Change Your Movement Climbing – Rotator Cuff Strain
Hanging on your arms during rest stances, climbing with a hunched posture, and strenuous overhead reaching can increase the likelihood of a rotator cuff strain. Proper posture is especially important during rest stances.
The Climbing Doctor In Vogue Magazine
A few months ago I was scanning my inbox when I came across an email from Vogue Magazine for an interview request. I used to see the cover of the magazine all the time while waiting in line at the grocery store, but I never knew what it was about. So after receiving [...]
The three best climbing shoulder exercises
It is the end of the day. You are tired and beat, but you decide to give it one last go on your project. You get to the crux move and give it everything you've got. Suddenly you feel a sharp pain in your shoulder. You know that you likely injured your shoulder. [...]