Finger Extensor Exercises
This series of exercises strengthen the finger extensor muscles and tendons in the back of the hand, wrist and fingers. Perform isometric holds at varied angles to mirror the muscle actions of the fingers while climbing. Perform three sets of 30 seconds. However, your hold times during the 30 seconds will vary based on your preferred style of climbing—they should be roughly the same length of time you grip holds on the rock (see chart below).
Rubber-Band Finger Extensions
Place a rubber-band around the tips of your fingers while maintaining a straight wrist. Spread your fingers without bending your wrist. Hold this position, then let your fingers collapse back in. Use several rubber bands around your fingers to increase the resistance. You can find thick rubber bands in the vegetable section of the grocery market. They are usually wrapped around asparagus and broccoli.