An evidence-based, structured, and measurable framework for returning to climbing safely and effectively. So you’ve gotten the clearance to return to climbing. Great news! Being away from climbing for either an injury or other life circumstances can be such a hard mental battle and there’s a good chance you’re more psyched than ever [...]
Tendons are a hot topic in the climbing world and with good reason. The first and most important question when it comes to tendon pain is: should I rest it or load it?
Joint pain is part of life as a rock climber, and so much emphasis is placed on finger pulley and flexor tendon injuries, but what about the other side of the finger? Our fingertips are our initial and primary link to the rock and the distal interphalangeal joint (DIP) gets the brunt of [...]
In the current era of training for climbing, finger strength is all the rage. A quick Google search will turn up no less than a dozen hangboarding protocols, with countless Reddit threads discussing each of them ad nauseam.
Body tension from a functional perspective can be described as a balance of generated internal forces from several muscle groups working in unison to meet or exceed external resistance (like gravity). Climbing-specific body tension is both an outcome of functional skill and strength.
As climbing becomes larger and more popular, climbing injuries will become more and more prevalent not only among the veterans, but also among newcomers. A simple google search will find hundreds of strengthening and stretching programs promising to bulletproof your shoulder, ankle, knee, etc…
There are a myriad of upper extremity injuries that we can discuss, but we are going to focus on one shoulder injury here—the SLAP tear. A SLAP tear is an injury in which the top of the cartilaginous ring surrounding your shoulder joint is torn.
Most climbers would agree that improving their footwork is necessary to send more. The moment your feet leave the wall generally indicates you are either: dyno-ing, your feet have cut and your climb has now turned into a campus, or you are falling.
Are you having back pain after climbing for hours on end? Or, maybe you get back pain intermittently when you are in certain positions, after you’ve done multiple sit starts, while bouldering, or high stepping. You are not alone.
Rock climbing is a sport that requires precise technique. Being able to stay on the wall and not “barn-door” or fall off may be due to shifting your hips just a little bit to the right or swinging one foot out to the side for a flag. In this article you will learn about climbing movement.