Hang Right For Shoulder Health

Esther Smith, a Doctor of Physical Therapy and owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City, wrote a great article on how to hang right when climbing and training. She provides a detailed case report of her treatment of Babsi Zangerl, a Black Diamond athlete, during her time in the BD Bootcamp. [...]

By |2021-11-25T14:27:09-08:00July 13th, 2017|Guest Post|4 Comments

More For Less: What Every Climber Wants

This articles explores using blood flow restriction training to improve forearm capacity. Blood flow restriction training (BFRT) is a technique originally created in Japan under the title Kaatsu by Yoshiaki Sato in the 1970’s. Since that time the therapy has accumulated hundreds of research papers supporting its effectiveness. There are a dozen or [...]

By |2021-11-25T14:28:03-08:00July 8th, 2017|Guest Post|10 Comments

How Shoulder Mobility Affects Your Climbing

Do you have pain between your shoulder blades after climbing? Do you have trouble reaching your arms fully overhead? Do you find yourself slouching with your shoulders rotated inward?   You might have poor shoulder mobility. The areas that generally limit shoulder mobility in climbers are: The thoracic spine (mid-back) The scapula (shoulder blade) [...]

By |2021-11-25T14:28:10-08:00July 8th, 2017|Guest Post|4 Comments

Thoracic Mobility For Climbers

Rationale: In order to climb at your highest level and pain-free, you must have adequate mobility throughout your body. This article speaks specifically to mobility in the thoracic spine. The thoracic spine is the group of spinal segments below your neck and above your low back. Thoracic spine mobility is important for overall [...]

By |2021-11-25T14:31:11-08:00June 4th, 2017|Guest Post|3 Comments

Route Setting to Prevent Climbing Injury

Recently, "The Climbing Doctor" had the chance to connect with Chris Danielson, who is one the most renowned American route setters. This was a unique opportunity to see the behind the scenes thought processes that goes into competition route setting and how the same methodology can be applied to route setting for non-competition climbers in the gym . The thought process [...]

By |2021-11-24T11:17:06-08:00May 8th, 2017|Guest Post|3 Comments

Balanced Climbing Shoulders

Balanced muscles around the shoulder are essential for climbing efficiency as well as to avoid uneven tension around the joint. Imbalance in muscles around joints leads to increased strain and stress in the soft tissues and can ultimately lead to tissue failure. The anterior (front) shoulder muscles and the anterior (front) chest muscles [...]

By |2021-11-25T14:30:50-08:00February 9th, 2017|Guest Post|3 Comments

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