Long Head of the Biceps Tendinopathy
You have been working on your project for some time – maybe getting stuck on a burly sequence on that magical line you’ve been hoping to send. Every time you give the project a go, you get a soreness in the front of your shoulder. You thought initially this would go away with a [...]
Low Back Injuries in Boulderers
You’ve finally finished packing your car for that big camping and climbing trip and cannot wait to get on the road to the campground. After a 4 hour drive, you start to pull up to the campsite and notice the sun is starting to go down
Hang-Boarding Prehab Routine For Intermediate Climbers
You are climbing on your project for the third time this week and you are getting closer to the crux. The pump clock is ticking so you frantically throw for that tiny crimp that has been haunting you for the past month. As you latch onto the crimp with your right hand, your left [...]
Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) Training for Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers
Ever had your foot slip on a crimp while climbing and felt a pop or tweak in your finger? Pulley (or annular ligament) injuries are one of the most common types of injuries that rock climbers experience. Thankfully, there are ways you can treat these injuries and train at the same time. Blood flow [...]
Why Do You Have Stiff Shoulders Climbing
This article will focus on why rock climbers have stiff shoulders. While analyzing the climbers’ neck and shoulder pain during a clinical exam, immobility assessment is a key component. Muscle Length Joint Mobility Range of Motion Pec Major Humeral AP Glide Shoulder Flexion Pec Minor Humeral Inferior Glide Shoulder Abduction Latissimus Dorsi [...]
A Complete Program for Climbing Lateral Elbow Pain
Treating tennis elbow (outside elbow pain) in rock climbers can be tricky. That is why it is important to be systematic in process. The best way is to utilize a rehabilitation framework, such as the rock rehab pyramid that is the book Climb Injury-Free. Â Starting with unloading the tendons that insert on the [...]