I had the opportunity to pick Eva Lopez's brain on her thoughts on preventing climbing injury. Eva has an amazing wealth of knowledge on training for climbing and preventing injury. She hosts an information packed blog at: http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/ Check out the interview below. It is an extremely detailed look ant preventing injury. Enjoy: Eva [...]
I don't watch movies anymore and rarely watch television. But when Josh Levin told me to tune in and watch him perform on American Ninja Warrior, I decided to make an exception. American Ninja Warrior has gotten huge among the rock climbing community over the past few years.
Check out some of the injury prevention rock climbing tips from Professional Climber Dan Mirsky. Below is a photo excerpt from the upcoming book "Climb Injury Free" describing Dan's pre-climbing warm-up. A proper warm up is perhaps the most important thing I do to keep climbing injury free. I warm up for 30 minutes every [...]
I want to share a cool blog entry written by Mike Anderson. He is a friend and author of the Rock Climber's Training Manual. He injured his ankle severely part-way through his training cycle. He as able to rehabilitate it, recover and climb one of the hardest routes he has ever climbed. Mike gives [...]
If anyone has gone through shoulder pain and eventually a labral surgery, then you know exactly how tough it can be to get back on the wall after. Hazel Findlay is a British climber and total badass that I have had the pleasure to work with and help her threw some of the challenging [...]
Below is a submission from a climber who found a cheap and easy way to make a dirtbag strap with webbing. This compliments several of the exercises in the book "The Ultimate Climber." Great idea, check out the note: Hi Dr. Jared, got the book and have started using the warmup today. Few days [...]
What an awesome class at Vertical World in Seattle. Check out the photos from the clinic. A big thanks to Josh Jubb, Truc Allen and Aaron Rourke for making this happen! Previous post: The Climbing Doctor is stoked to join Vertical World in Seattle on February 6th for a "Climb Injury Free" clinic. [...]
An invitation to speak at Banff Coaches Conference in Canada. It was such a treat to have the opportunity to spread the injury prevention knowledge to the top coaches in Canada. Big thanks to Chris Neve for hosting the event!
I'll be up in Banff at the end of October helping spread the injury prevention message at the "Banff Coaching Conference." Come join the fun. Details are listed below. Hope to see you there!
There is confusion in the climbing community about what are antagonist muscles and how to effectively train them to prevent injury. This article takes a deeper look at how muscles function when we climb and the importance of training antagonist muscles in a similar manner to how they contract while climbing. What are [...]