• Pulleys are ligaments. A sprain/strain describes a stretch or partial tear of a ligament (“strain” is usually reserved for injuries to a muscle or tendon, but some of the literature mentions a strain of the pulley). A pulley rupture is a complete tear of the ligament, where no part of the tissue remains in contact with the other side. Now that you have an understanding of the terminology, let’s discuss specifics.

  • The heel hook is a dynamic maneuver requiring flexibility, strength, and power to execute safely and effectively. The mechanism of injury and symptoms are rather typical when it comes to climbers that suffer hamstring strains.

  • It wasn’t that far ago that phantom limb pain was a complete mystery. This is a sensation that someone experiences in, say their finger, after it’s been amputated. The finger no longer exists yet the person can still feel it. This is possible because sensations, such as pain, are experiences created by both your body AND your mind.

  • “Keep your arms straight and stay low!” This classic line is heard the world over for beginning climbers. Even if preventing the T-Rex arm is a quality way to fight off pump, this doesn’t tell the whole story of how we should be moving on the wall.

  • Have you ever read a blog post, or heard people talking in the gym, about muscle agonists/antagonists and wondered what they mean? I’d like to help you out with that. […]

  • Do you have pain in the front of your hip or groin? Is sitting cross-legged or in low chairs uncomfortable? Is your hip pain worse following a climbing session? Have you noticed high-stepping or cross-over moves cause you pain? If yes, you may have Femoroacetabular Impingement Syndrome (FAI).

  • I recently finished the classroom portion of my Doctor of Physical Therapy education, and I am now moving into my final clinical rotation down in San Diego. With a short […]

  • The spine begins to curve and the shoulders round forward and you begin to take on the appearance of Quasimodo. But fear not, the dreaded hunchback is avoidable with some simple mobility, strength and movement exercises. Check out the article below to learn more.

  • If you’re a climber, chances are you have either had a finger injury, or at least you know someone who has had one. According to the research literature, fnger injuries are the number one culprit, with A2 pulley injuries being the most common.

  • You are standing at the base of a route at your climbing gym. You notice wide stemming moves, high heel hooks and large step throughs. Looking up at the intricate sequences, you start to think maybe the route was set by a Cirque de Soleil performer.