Banff Coaching Conference
I'll be up in Banff at the end of October helping spread the injury prevention message at the "Banff Coaching Conference." Come join the fun. Details are listed below. Hope to see you there!
Train Antagonist Strength for Climbing
There is confusion in the climbing community about what are antagonist muscles and how to effectively train them to prevent injury. This article takes a deeper look at how muscles function when we climb and the importance of training antagonist muscles in a similar manner to how they contract while climbing. What are [...]
The Climbing Doctor Goes to China
I was in China for two months as the Physical Therapist for the Chinese Olympic Track and Field Team to prepare the athletes for the World Championships. On the flight to China, I put together a series of photos to introduce myself to the Olympic Athletes. During the first session with each athlete, I would show them [...]
Portland Rock Gym Course
I was invited out to Portland Rock Gym for a jam packed injury prevention clinic. We went over a climbing specific warm-up, muscle activation exercises and body positioning on the wall. It is amazing how much these clinic have grown.
Josh Levin Prevents Injuries With Taping Techniques
Some behind the scenes action with climber Josh Levin, the 19 time youth national champion. A lot of fun and a great collaboration to begin to put out a series of new tape jobs to help climbers. More to come...Special thanks to photographer Ari Kirsch
Sasha DiGiulian Preventing Injuries
This weekend I was in New York working on a new project with Sasha DiGulian. It was a pretty awesome setup, thanks to Stephen Gross and his assistant Nick Piltoff. We had full access to an indoor climbing wall and brought out all of the rehab tools. I performed a "Climber Evaluation" with [...]
Dan Mirsky Training Beta Post
A great post by TrainingBeta teaching professional climber Dan Mirsky some warm-up tips. It was a blast connecting with Dan. He'll be appearing in an athlete profile in my new book "Climb Injury-Free."
Red Rock Rendezvous
Red Rock Rendezvous is the nations largest outdoor climbing festival. Over 1100 climbers gather right outside Las Vegas Nevada each for three jam-packed days of climbing, clinics and activities. Clinics are hosted by some of the top professional climbers from across the country. Dr. Vagy, the author of “The Ultimate Climber – Prevent Injury [...]
Jonathan Siegrist Preventing Injuries
Jonathan Siegrist came out to Los Angeles to collaborate with me on an upcoming project that I'm putting together and to get his body assessed for an injury prevention and rehabilitation program.
Rock Climbing Pulley Injury
You feel a sharp pain across your finger after a long day of hanging on crimpers. Your finger is swollen and difficult to bend. You may have heard a snap or pop while pulling hard on a particular hold. It is likely that you strained or tore a pulley ligament in your finger.