I want to share a cool blog entry written by Mike Anderson. He is a friend and author of the Rock Climber's Training Manual. He injured his ankle severely part-way through his training cycle. He as able to rehabilitate it, recover and climb one of the hardest routes he has ever climbed. Mike gives [...]
If anyone has gone through shoulder pain and eventually a labral surgery, then you know exactly how tough it can be to get back on the wall after. Hazel Findlay is a British climber and total badass that I have had the pleasure to work with and help her threw some of the challenging [...]
Below is a submission from a climber who found a cheap and easy way to make a dirtbag strap with webbing. This compliments several of the exercises in the book "The Ultimate Climber." Great idea, check out the note: Hi Dr. Jared, got the book and have started using the warmup today. Few days [...]
What an awesome class at Vertical World in Seattle. Check out the photos from the clinic. A big thanks to Josh Jubb, Truc Allen and Aaron Rourke for making this happen! Previous post: The Climbing Doctor is stoked to join Vertical World in Seattle on February 6th for a "Climb Injury Free" clinic. [...]
An invitation to speak at Banff Coaches Conference in Canada. It was such a treat to have the opportunity to spread the injury prevention knowledge to the top coaches in Canada. Big thanks to Chris Neve for hosting the event!
I'll be up in Banff at the end of October helping spread the injury prevention message at the "Banff Coaching Conference." Come join the fun. Details are listed below. Hope to see you there!
There is confusion in the climbing community about what are antagonist muscles and how to effectively train them to prevent injury. This article takes a deeper look at how muscles function when we climb and the importance of training antagonist muscles in a similar manner to how they contract while climbing. What are [...]
I was in China for two months as the Physical Therapist for the Chinese Olympic Track and Field Team to prepare the athletes for the World Championships. On the flight to China, I put together a series of photos to introduce myself to the Olympic Athletes. During the first session with each athlete, I would show them [...]
I was invited out to Portland Rock Gym for a jam packed injury prevention clinic. We went over a climbing specific warm-up, muscle activation exercises and body positioning on the wall. It is amazing how much these clinic have grown.
Some behind the scenes action with climber Josh Levin, the 19 time youth national champion. A lot of fun and a great collaboration to begin to put out a series of new tape jobs to help climbers. More to come...Special thanks to photographer Ari Kirsch