If anyone has gone through shoulder pain and eventually a labral surgery, then you know exactly how tough it can be to get back on the wall after. Hazel Findlay is a British climber and total badass that I have had the pleasure to work with and help her threw some of the challenging times after her surgery. She recently posted an entry with a small thank you for the help.
“Luckily two men have saved me from a winter in the UK. Pablo Scorza is an amazing physio based near Siurana and Jared Vagy who has been helping me with strengthening exercises remotely from the States. So far their help has been really beneficial and I seem to be back on the right track!”
To hear more about Hazel’s experiences on her road to recovery, check out her blog:
I wish Hazel the best of luck with her recovery and am excited to her starting to get back to crushing it. She is an inspiration to work with.
Below is a quote that she told me about her shoulder injury that will appear in my upcoming book “Climb Injury Free.” The full text of the quote is below.
I was climbing a route where I had limited footholds with several powerful and reachy moves. I am small in stature and very flexible but repeatedly doing the big moves was stressful on my body. Over the course of a few days of trying the route, I injured my shoulder.
I have always been very flexible. I believe one of the big reasons that my shoulder was susceptible to injury was that I had a lot of mobility but not necessarily the strength or stability at the extreme ranges of motion. Perhaps I may not have had my shoulder injury if I had known how to strengthen the correct muscles.
After the injury, I had several months of physical therapy. It was in therapy that I learned how to activate all of the smaller supporting muscles in the shoulder to balance the body. I learned that I had a weak lower trapezius muscle. I performed several exercises to strengthen it. I also learned several specific rotator cuff exercises with a Theraband. These exercises have been effective in improving my shoulder health. The only reason I was able to climb for years after my injury was that I was constantly performing physical therapy exercises to strengthening everything around the injury.”