Rock Rehab Protocol: Lateral Epicondylosis


This “Rock Rehab Protocol” is designed to take you step-by-step through the entire rehabilitation process

  • Learn how to diagnose your injury with orthopedic tests
  • Choose a rehab category based on your test results
  • Follow the specific protocol for your rehab category
  • Return to climbing at full strength and injury-free


Step 1: Determine Your Injury

Disclaimer: The information on this page is not intended to diagnose or treat any medical condition. Always consult your physician or physical therapist before performing any assessment or beginning a rehabilitation protocol. 

Signs and Symptoms

  • Painful localized point along the outside of the forearm
  • Discomfort with actively extending the wrist backwards
  • Discomfort with passively flexing the wrist forward


When you climb, you are constantly overworking the finger and wrist flexors in the front of your forearm by gripping. However, every time that you grip a hold, the muscles in the back of your forearm contract to stabilize the wrist. This constant activation of the muscles in the back of your forearm can lead to overuse and injury at the origin of the muscle on the outside of the elbow called the lateral epicondyle. You should be aware of dangerous movements that can lead to injury. This includes gripping with an extended wrist, climbing with your elbows away from the wall and jamming wide cracks. Use the video below as a resource to determine if you have lateral epicondylosis.

Step 2: Determine Your Rehab Category

Use the table below to determine your rehabilitation category based on the results from your orthopedic tests. You will fit into a rehabilitation category (mild, moderate or severe) based on the number of tests that are positive.

Step 3: Start The Protocol

Once you have determined your rehabilitation category, you can begin the rock rehab protocol. The protocols contain a detailed timeline and step-by-step instructions. They utilize a four-phase system to unload the injured tissue, gain full mobility, improve strength and eventually return to pain-free climbing movement. The protocols can either be viewed within the program or downloaded as a PDF.

Reference the companion videos, where professional climbers teach you efficient climbing movement and proper exercise performance.

Any equipment that is used in the protocol can either be bought as a rehabilitation tool or created from retired climbing equipment or household items. If you use retired climbing equipment or household items, it will be referenced in the videos as a “dirtbag substitution.”If you would like to purchase any of the rehab tools, you can find them in the links below:

How do I know if I am Purchasing the Correct Protocol?

It is always recommended to consult a medical practitioner to determine your diagnosis so that you can select the correct protocol. However, orthopedic special test videos are given on the product purchase page to show how a medical practitioner would diagnosis your condition. There tests are supported by research and can provide insight on your diagnosis and condition.

How are the Rock Rehab Protocols Different from the Rock Rehab Videos?

The rock rehab videos are meant to be a companion for the book Climb Injury-Free and provide exercises and movement advice for the 10 most common climbing injuries. The rock rehab protocols are specific to one injury and provide a step-by-step protocol, timeline, and exercise videos that can be used in conjunction with self performed diagnostic tests to help climbers rehabilitate injury. vice.

Can I download the videos and the protocols?

The videos will stream from any device but they cannot be downloaded. However, the protocols and timelines can be downloaded as a PDF or printed.


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