Painfully Ignorant? Impact of Gender and Aim of Training on Injuries in Climbing

This systematic review explores the significant influence of gender and training goals on climbing injuries, highlighting the differences in injury types and prevalence among men and women climbers. The research analyzed data from over 1,500 climbers who participate in sport climbing, bouldering, and traditional climbing. Key findings reveal that more than 50% of climbers reported injuries within the past year, with men most commonly experiencing finger injuries and women facing shoulder injuries.

The study attributes these differences to both anatomical and training factors. For instance, men’s injuries frequently stem from gripping techniques, while women are more susceptible to shoulder injuries due to dynamic movements required in modern climbing. Additionally, climbers who focus on all three climbing styles reported higher injury rates, emphasizing the physical toll of diverse climbing techniques.

This research advocates for gender-specific injury prevention programs and suggests future studies focus on gendered patterns in climbing training and injury. It also underscores the importance of understanding how training aims, such as improving strength or maintaining fitness, impact injury rates. These findings offer valuable insights for climbers, coaches, and medical professionals in developing tailored training and recovery programs for climbers of all levels.

See below for a great resource to assess the impact of gender and training goals on climbing injuries: