Photo Credit: Jensen Walker Professional Climber Sasha Digiulian shows you the five best antagonist exercises to prevent climbing injury. It is important to strengthen the antagonist muscles in your body to increase strength, improve [...]

Photo Credit: Cameron Maier Professional Climber Jonathan Siegrist shows you the five best stretches to prevent climbing injury. It is important to stretch the stiff muscles in your body to increase flexibility and [...]

Photo Credits: Ari Kirsch and Stephen Gross Dr. Jared Vagy DPT shows you how to modify your finger strengthening exercises to improve their rock climbing specificity. The Importance of Finger Extensor Strength [...]

SLAP’d with a Shoulder Injury? Karen Hsu Physical Therapy Karen Hsu, PT, DPT Image: unsplash.com Introduction In recent years, rock climbing as a sport has experienced a large increase in popularity. As more people have [...]

A Pain in the Back Karen Hsu Physical Therapy Karen Hsu, PT, DPT unsplash.com Introduction Are you having back pain after climbing for hours on end? Or, maybe you get back pain intermittently [...]

Long Term Athlete Development I am honored to be involved in the development of Canada's Long Term Athlete Development document for Sport Climbing. Although my role was mostly consultative, I am extremely proud of the [...]

Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric Testing and PAP for Coaches. Camp4 Human Performance Tyler Nelson DC, MS, CSCS @C4HP Introduction: Performance at the crag or in a competition is a direct representation [...]

Pulley Injuries Explained: Part 2 You May Not Need Surgery In Part 1 of this article, we discussed the anatomy of finger pulleys, the biomechanics behind our flexor tendon/pulley system, and the implications [...]

Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries Written by William Bateman Edited by: Nina Tappin For a long time I dropped things, mostly smaller items like car keys. I also suffered from phantom pains. The tip [...]

Quick Beta - Agonist and Antagonist Muscles by Matt DeStefano Have you ever read a blog post, or heard people talking in the gym, about muscle agonists/antagonists and wondered what they mean? I’d [...]