Pocket Change: Adapting the Way You Pull on Pockets by Matt DeStefano I recently finished the classroom portion of my Doctor of Physical Therapy education, and I am now moving into my final [...]

Pulley Injuries Explained - Part 1 of 2 by Matt DeStefano If you’re a climber, chances are you have either had a finger injury, or at least you know someone who has had one. [...]

Hang Right For Shoulder Health Esther Smith, a Doctor of Physical Therapy and owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City, wrote a great article on how to hang right when climbing [...]

More For Less: What Every Climber Wants Using Blood Flow Restriction Training To Improve Forearm Capacity Tyler Nelson DC, MS, CSCS Camp4 Human Performance Background Blood flow restriction training (BFRT) is a [...]

How Shoulder Mobility Affects Your Climbing Do you have pain between your shoulder blades after climbing? Do you have trouble reaching your arms fully overhead? Do you find yourself slouching with your shoulders rotated [...]

Thoracic Spine Mobility for Climbers By Matt DeStefano Rationale: In order to climb at your highest level and pain-free, you must have adequate mobility throughout your body. This article speaks specifically to mobility in [...]

Use a Luggage Scale to Quantify Strength I work with a lot of climbers internationally and many of them want to know how to quantify their muscle strength to determine muscle imbalances. I used to [...]

Recently, "The Climbing Doctor" had the chance to connect with Chris Danielson, who is one the most renowned American route setters. This was a unique opportunity to see the behind the scenes thought processes that goes into competition route setting [...]

Rotator Cuff Strain Signs and Symptoms Dull ache radiating into the back or side of the shoulder. Discomfort lifting objects, especially out to the side. Cause The shoulder is made up of four rotator [...]

Balanced Climbing Shoulders By Tanya Anne Mackenzie PhD (Specialist shoulder and elbow physiotherapist) Balanced muscles around the shoulder are essential for climbing efficiency as well as to avoid uneven tension around the joint. Imbalance [...]