Rock Climbing Injury Tips: Finger Pulley Sprain
Photo Credits: Ari Kirsch and Stephen Gross Dr. Jared Vagy DPT shows you how to modify your finger strengthening exercises to improve their rock climbing specificity. The Importance of Finger Extensor Strength [...]
SLAP’d with a Shoulder Injury?
SLAP’d with a Shoulder Injury? Karen Hsu Physical Therapy Karen Hsu, PT, DPT Image: unsplash.com Introduction In recent years, rock climbing as a sport has experienced a large increase in popularity. As more people have [...]
Low Back Pain and Rock Climbing
A Pain in the Back Karen Hsu Physical Therapy Karen Hsu, PT, DPT unsplash.com Introduction Are you having back pain after climbing for hours on end? Or, maybe you get back pain intermittently [...]
Long Term Athlete Development
Long Term Athlete Development I am honored to be involved in the development of Canada's Long Term Athlete Development document for Sport Climbing. Although my role was mostly consultative, I am extremely proud of the [...]
Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric testing and PAP for coaches.
Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric Testing and PAP for Coaches. Camp4 Human Performance Tyler Nelson DC, MS, CSCS @C4HP Introduction: Performance at the crag or in a competition is a direct representation [...]
Pulley Injuries Explained – Part 2
Pulley Injuries Explained: Part 2 You May Not Need Surgery In Part 1 of this article, we discussed the anatomy of finger pulleys, the biomechanics behind our flexor tendon/pulley system, and the implications [...]
Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries
Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries Written by William Bateman Edited by: Nina Tappin For a long time I dropped things, mostly smaller items like car keys. I also suffered from phantom pains. The tip [...]
Quick Beta – Agonist and Antagonist Muscles
Quick Beta - Agonist and Antagonist Muscles by Matt DeStefano Have you ever read a blog post, or heard people talking in the gym, about muscle agonists/antagonists and wondered what they mean? I’d [...]
Pocket Change – Adapting the Way You Pull on Pockets
Pocket Change: Adapting the Way You Pull on Pockets by Matt DeStefano I recently finished the classroom portion of my Doctor of Physical Therapy education, and I am now moving into my final [...]
Pulley Injuries Explained – Part 1
Pulley Injuries Explained - Part 1 of 2 by Matt DeStefano If you’re a climber, chances are you have either had a finger injury, or at least you know someone who has had one. [...]