Collateral Ligament Finger Injuries in Climbers
If you are familiar with rock climbing, you’ve probably either experienced a finger injury or know someone who has. Finger injuries are a common occurrence in rock climbing due to the high demands of supporting your body weight on small, irregular holds - sometimes just by the tips of your fingers. You may have [...]
Trigger Finger
In the middle of an intense 6-week training regimen for climbing, you notice a catching and locking in your left ring finger when opening and closing your hand. There is a pain in your finger and in the top of your hand. Since you want to send your project this year and don’t want [...]
The Gym Boulder’s Guide to Preventing Lower Body Injuries While Jumping/Landing/Falling
Are you sending hard only to jump off and twist your ankle and/or knee? Day 1 in the boulder gym we all learn proper falling technique, “gently land with your knees bent and roll to your butt…” but… how many of us actually do that on a regular basis..? Unless you down-climb 100% of [...]
Footwork Techniques to Prevent or Reduce Bunion Pain
You begin reading the route, noting all the tiny footholds you will have to balance on. You imagine placing your weight on those holds, and dread begins to set in as you prepare yourself for the ache that will come. As you begin the climb, you consciously guard against putting too much weight on [...]
Cardiovascular Training for Rock Climbers
You’re on a week-long climbing trip to Smith Rock State Park with your gym friends, psyched on trying to send your big project after a winter of good training in the gym. You climb hard for three days, almost sending the climb but stuck on the second to last move. Feeling your raw fingers [...]
The ultimate guide to help you return to rock climbing
An evidence-based, structured, and measurable framework for returning to climbing safely and effectively. So you’ve gotten the clearance to return to climbing. Great news! Being away from climbing for either an injury or other life circumstances can be such a hard mental battle and there’s a good chance you’re more psyched than ever to [...]