Finger pulley injuries are the most common injury with rock climbers. In order to understand pulley sprains, we need to understand the anatomy first. So, let’s discuss the pulleys in the fingers. Five of them are annular Three of them are cruciate The flexor digitorum superficialis and flexor digitorum profundus both pass under [...]
In this article, we will take a closer look at train climbing route speed, movement cadence, and technique. When analyzing climbing movement, there are five key components to look at: speed, hold contact, intensity, style, and alignment. Let's begin by first looking at speed. Static Climbing Movement The below video displays a [...]
In this post, we’ll review the rehabilitation guidelines for a pulley sprain. Based on the research by Lutter and colleagues as well as Cooper and colleagues. First, lets review the grading of an injury with ultrasound from a study by Lutter and colleagues. As you can see in the table below, pulley [...]
When assessing climbing performance, we look at strength, power, endurance, mobility, and control. In this article, we’ll discuss mobility. Look at the two different movements in the photos below, both of which are high steps. On the left, Jon Cardwell performs a high step rock-up, rocking his weight over his foot. The photo [...]
The Climbing Doctor connected with Dr. Tom Hackett MD to discuss various topics related to the shoulder, labral tears, and rock climbing. See below for a recording of the video and the complete transcript. 0:00 Start 1:41 Advanced Training of Fellowship Surgeons 4:18 Understanding the Anatomy of the Shoulder and Labrum [...]
In this article, we will take a look at how to test finger strength with the arm fixated, using tension and compression-based dynamometry. See below for a complete video walking through a step-by-step process of how to test no hang finger strength. What Does The Research Say? Fixated strength testing [...]
Professional Climber Jonathan Siegrist shows you the five best stretches to prevent climbing injury. It is important to stretch the stiff muscles in your body to increase flexibility and prevent injury.
Dr. Jared Vagy DPT shows you how to modify your finger strengthening exercises to improve their rock climbing specificity and help prevent common finger injuries such as a pulley sprain.
I am honored to be involved in the development of Canada's Long Term Athlete Development document for Sport Climbing. Although my role was mostly consultative, I am extremely proud of the work. The document is the foundation for athlete development in both recreational and competitive indoor climbing. Climb for Life was initiated in [...]
This article will take you through a step-by-step process of how to fabricate a pulley protection splint for a rock climber with a grade II or III pulley sprain. The purpose of the article is to educate the climber as well as the medical practitioner on the details of constructing a pulley protection splint.