In this conversation, The Climbing Doctor interviews Stephen Kiraly, a physical therapy student, about shoulder hypermobility, particularly in climbers. They discuss what shoulder hypermobility is, how to assess it, its benefits and drawbacks, and rehabilitation strategies. The conversation emphasizes the importance of education for climbers regarding their shoulder health and provides practical tips [...]
In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Jack Brown discuss the necessity of developing a climbing-specific fitness battery for youth climbers. They explore the metabolic and biomechanical demands of climbing, the importance of assessing injury resilience, and the components of a comprehensive fitness assessment. The discussion includes a detailed breakdown of a two-day testing [...]
In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Joe Manoles discuss the concepts of motor learning and motor control, particularly in the context of climbing. They explore key terminology, the stages of motor learning, and practical applications for climbers. The discussion also goes into into personal challenges faced by climbers, types of practice and feedback, [...]
In this insightful presentation, physiotherapist Evelyne Lajoie explores the occupational risks and injury profiles associated with the profession of routesetting. Using data from a comprehensive web survey, Lajoie discusses common injury patterns, risk factors, and practical recommendations to enhance safety for routesetters. This presentation provides essential information for both employers and routesetters to [...]
In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve Smith discuss the complexities of energy system training for climbers, particularly focusing on how to effectively train with limited resources. They discuss the importance of understanding muscle contractions, the various energy systems involved in climbing, and practical training protocols that can be implemented off the wall. [...]
This presentation presents a detailed case study on a scapholunate ligament injury, providing a comprehensive look at the anatomy, biomechanics, injury history, rehabilitation protocol, and the climber’s return to sport. Led by Rachel Rubin-Sarganis and Waldo Cheung, both highly qualified physical therapists with advanced degrees, this session explores the unique challenges of treating [...]
In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Josh Foster discuss meniscal injuries in rock climbers. They explain what a meniscal injury is and how climbers can injure their meniscus. They discuss the signs and symptoms of a meniscal injury and how it is diagnosed and treated. They also outline a rehabilitation plan for meniscal [...]
In this conversation, Dr. Nick Hedges discusses the importance of the lower body, specifically the ankle, in climbing. He highlights the prevalence of ankle injuries in climbing and the potential consequences of ankle sprains. Dr. Hedges provides self-assessment techniques to determine ankle susceptibility and reduce the risk of injury. He also explains how [...]
In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. Kimmy shares her [...]
This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, [...]