In this episode, The Climbing Doctor talks climbing movement with an expert on the subject, John Kettle! John is an experienced coach of over 20 years and is the author of "Rock Climbing Technique." Watch this video to learn about John's journey with injuries and how he applies movement to improve climbing performance. [...]
Have you ever wondered if the pain that you are feeling is real or if it is just in head? There is a 100% percent chance that it is in your head, because that is where the interpretation of pain occurs. And it is typically there for a reason. Your tissues send [...]
Below is a published article in the peer reviewed open access journal: Frontiers in Sports and Active Living. It was written by Kaja Langer, Christian Simon, and Josef Wiemeyer and is titled: Physical performance testing in climbing—A systematic review Article abstract: Due to the increasing popularity of climbing, the corresponding diagnostics are gaining [...]
Below is a published article in the peer reviewed open access journal: Frontiers in Sports and Active Living. It was written by Dr. Jared Vagy DPT “The Climbing Doctor” and is titled: Clinical Management of Finger Joint Capsulitis/Synovitis in a Rock Climber. This case study presents a 23-year-old male recreational rock climber, who [...]
A new series of articles has just published on the topics of Training and Testing in Rock Climbing. A description of the free article series is below, along with the entire downloadable PDF. Dr. Jared Vagy DPT has published an article within the series titled "Case Report: Using Telehealth to Treat Triceps Tendinopathy [...]
This article will focus on why rock climbers have stiff shoulders. While analyzing the climbers’ neck and shoulder pain during a clinical exam, immobility assessment is a key component. Muscle Length Joint Mobility Range of Motion Pec Major Humeral AP Glide Shoulder Flexion Pec Minor Humeral Inferior Glide Shoulder Abduction Latissimus [...]
Treating tennis elbow (outside elbow pain) in rock climbers can be tricky. That is why it is important to be systematic in process. The best way is to utilize a rehabilitation framework, such as the rock rehab pyramid that is the book Climb Injury-Free. Starting with unloading the tendons that insert on [...]
Do you ever wonder why it is so hard to keep your fingers warm when climbing? Are you interested in strategies to keep the circulation flowing while you climb? Well, this article will go in-depth into several ways how to keep the blood flowing and will use a case study of a [...]
I was seeing a rock climber, she was a 22-year-old female, and she reported after a long session of bouldering that she would have wrist instability, as well as pain. I assessed her wrist mobility, and it was hypermobile, meaning it moved too much. In addition, I assessed her joint position error [...]
If a climber presents with palmar nodules in their hand—mostly the ring finger, followed potentially by the little and middle fingers—they may have something called Dupuytren’s disease, also known as Dupuytren’s contracture. This is typically not painful, and it may potentially be genetic. See below for a description of the symptoms Location [...]