About The Climbing Doctor

The Climbing Doctor is passionate about preventing injuries and improving performance for all climbers.

Dolor en los dedos al escalar rocas: capsulitis articular

A Spanish Translation of the research article "Clinical Management of Finger Joint Capsulitis/Synovitis in a Rock Climber." Article written by Dr. Jared Vagy DPT “The Climbing Doctor” and translated by Alita Contreras. Original article below: Click here to read the full article in English Resumen Este estudio de caso presenta a un escalador [...]

By |2024-03-18T13:13:23-07:00November 9th, 2023|Research|0 Comments

S2, E6: Training With Your Cycle – Katrina Wong

This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, [...]

By |2024-12-10T02:00:23-08:00November 1st, 2024|Interview|0 Comments

S2, E5: Climb On after a Concussion – Stacey Castaldo

In this conversation, Stacey Castaldo, a doctor of physical therapy, shares her personal experience with concussion and discusses the signs, symptoms, and rehabilitation of concussions in rock climbing. She emphasizes the importance of seeking medical attention and getting screened after a head injury. Stacey also highlights the structured return to climbing protocol and [...]

By |2024-12-10T02:00:09-08:00September 1st, 2024|Interview|0 Comments

S2, E4: Tendons: Do I Load it or Rest it? – Evan Ingerson

In this episode, physical therapist Evan Ingerson discusses the topic of tendons and tendon injuries, with a focus on climbers. He explains the structure and function of tendons, the different types of tendon injuries, and the causes and symptoms of these injuries. He also discusses the differences between tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy, and [...]

By |2024-12-10T01:59:53-08:00July 1st, 2024|Interview|0 Comments

S2, E3: Climbing as Therapy for Mental Health – Beth Scott

In this conversation, Beth Scott, an occupational therapist and passionate climber, discusses mental health in climbing and provides practical techniques for improving mental well-being. The conversation covers topics such as understanding mental health for climbers, the importance of grounding exercises, breathing techniques, and building community for mental health support. Beth emphasizes the need [...]

By |2024-12-10T01:59:31-08:00March 10th, 2024|Interview|0 Comments

S2, E2: DIP Joint Finger Pain – Steve Smith

This interview focuses on discussing DIP joint pain in climbers. Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and [...]

By |2024-12-10T01:59:31-08:00February 10th, 2024|Interview|0 Comments

S2, E1: The Ultimate Guide for Returning Back to Rock Climbing – Evan Ingerson

In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and [...]

By |2024-12-10T01:59:23-08:00January 10th, 2024|Interview|0 Comments

S1, E11: The Mental Game of Climbing Injuries – Arno Ilgner

Arno Ilgner is a distinguished rock climber and first ascensionist, perhaps most well known as the author of The Rock Warrior's Way. Through his best selling work, Arno outlines his methodologies emphasizing mental training to help his students and readers improve their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within [...]

By |2024-12-10T01:57:15-08:00November 5th, 2023|Interview|0 Comments
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