I am lying in my cocoon high on mount Aconcagua. it is snowing, minus 40 degrees outside and 100km winds are thrashing the tent. We have spent 10 days climbing the mountain but have to turn back because of weather. I should be disappointed but instead i smile slyly to myself. I realize [...]
Bloody Corner - Car to Car 14 hours September 4th 2012 Background: It had been a while since Jeremy and I had climbed together (One year ago - El Capitan) and it had been a while since I had climbed rock in the Sierras (One year as well) - so we decided to [...]
Lurking Fear - El Capitan September 21 to September 26 2012 Background: Life is crazy at times. This past year was characterized by taking risks. I quit my job that I loved and moved away from the city of Santa Monica. I packed my bags with climbing gear and flew down to Peru [...]
Alpamayo French Direct August 11th to August 15th 2012 Background: Climbing Alpamayo was the alpine goal of my trip. I had seen photos of Scott Swaney and Aysel Gezik on the route one year ago and I was instantly attracted. The climbing looked "bad-ass." It was such a beautiful line on such a [...]
The Road To La Esfinge August 4th to August 8th 2012 Background: I had dreamed of climbing La Esfinge from the day I heard about its existance four years ago. I had traveled to Hauraz to climb but I had very little time or experience. I ended up getting altitude sickness and decided [...]
Ranrapalca - Getting It Done July 23rd - July 26th Background I was feeling strong after my last climb so I decdied to team up with Adam and 4 bad ass Chileans the climb Ranrapalca. The mountain is 20,2017 feet and this year has rarely been summited. The route has been climbed many [...]
Getting High on HuamashrajuJuly 18-Jul 21Backgroud:I spent the night of the 17th dry heaving, unable to eat and with a mild fever. I went to bed thinking I would not be able to stick with our original plan: a simple walk up Pisco. I decided to pop a Cipro in the morning and after an hour [...]
South Face Washington Column Rope Solo June 9-11 2012 Background: I had been debating climbing another big wall route solo ever since my trip up Moonlight Buttress in February. I distinctly remember telling myself “I am never going to do this shit again” and “That was the hardest thing I have done in [...]
Skull Queen Happy Birthday to me May 12-14 2012 Background: Lea approached me asking if I wanted to do a big wall with her. She had always been interested, had all her personal gear and was super motivated; so I said sure. We chose Skull Queen on Washington Column in Yosemite. It was [...]
Tahquitz My birthday Challenge (31 pitches in a day-although I am turning 28): May 6th 2012 The Challenge: Hamik and I somehow got the crazy idea in our head that if it was easy to climb 30 pitches in Joshua Tree in a day, then Tahquitz would be doable. Somehow we talked ourselves into [...]