Rock Climbing Injury: Self-assessment and rehabilitation program for a hamstring strain Introduction As you’re sending the first climb of the day or continuing to battle with that tricky bouldering problem, you inevitably find yourself at the crux of the climb. As you begin to assess your options you notice a crimp just out [...]
“Keep your arms straight and stay low!” This classic line is heard the world over for beginning climbers. Even if preventing the T-Rex arm is a quality way to fight off pump, this doesn’t tell the whole story of how we should be moving on the wall. In fact, the way that a lot [...]
Do you have pain in the front of your hip or groin? Is sitting cross-legged or in low chairs uncomfortable? Is your hip pain worse following a climbing session? Have you noticed high-stepping or cross-over moves cause you pain? If you answered yes to any of these questions, you may have Femoroacetabular Impingement [...]
Avoid the Rock Climbing Hunchback Introduction It is difficult to avoid the dreaded climbers hunch back. Years of climbing takes its toll on the body. You get lazy while belaying and round your shoulders. You sit slumped while watching your friends boulder. You slouch in your chair while working at your desk. The [...]
Spine Mobility You are standing at the base of a route at your climbing gym. You notice wide stemming moves, high heel hooks and large step throughs. Looking up at the intricate sequences, you start to think maybe the route was set by a Cirque de Soleil performer. But you decide to give [...]
Photo Credit: Jesse Peters Professional Climber Josh Levin shows you the best way to tape your shoulder back into a better alignment. But remember, the taping is just temporary to align your shoulder blade and decrease pain. Click on this link to learn the best exercises to strengthen your shoulder blade [...]
Photo Credit: Eddie Fowke Nerve Mobility Imagine that you are belaying your climbing partner and they are stuck at the crux. They keep climbing up and down-climbing but they aren’t going anywhere. You look at your belay device and you see the rope glide back and forth, gaining either more tension [...]
Photo Credit: Jensen Walker Professional Climber Sasha Digiulian shows you the five best antagonist exercises to prevent climbing injury. It is important to strengthen the antagonist muscles in your body to increase strength, improve body symmetry and prevent injury.The Importance of PostureClimbing is a sport that develops many of the muscles that hunch [...]
Photo Credit: Cameron Maier Professional Climber Jonathan Siegrist shows you the five best stretches to prevent climbing injury. It is important to stretch the stiff muscles in your body to increase flexibility and prevent injury. The Importance of Daily Prevention You may feel that injuries aren’t going to happen to you. But [...]
Photo Credits: Ari Kirsch and Stephen Gross Dr. Jared Vagy DPT shows you how to modify your finger strengthening exercises to improve their rock climbing specificity. The Importance of Finger Extensor Strength The forearm and fingers contain two types of major muscle groups: flexors on the palm side, and extensors on [...]