SLAP’d with a Shoulder Injury?

SLAP’d with a Shoulder Injury? Karen Hsu Physical Therapy Karen Hsu, PT, DPT Image: unsplash.com Introduction In recent years, rock climbing as a sport has experienced a large increase in popularity. As more people have started climbing, so have injury rates grown. Today, the nature of these injuries are mostly due to overuse and [...]

By |2018-07-02T15:34:42+00:00July 2nd, 2018|Uncategorized|1 Comment

Low Back Pain and Rock Climbing

A Pain in the Back Karen Hsu Physical Therapy Karen Hsu, PT, DPT unsplash.com Introduction Are you having back pain after climbing for hours on end? Or, maybe you get back pain intermittently when you are in certain positions, after you’ve done multiple sit starts, while bouldering, or high stepping. You are [...]

By |2018-03-31T16:44:44+00:00March 31st, 2018|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Long Term Athlete Development

Long Term Athlete Development I am honored to be involved in the development of Canada's Long Term Athlete Development document for Sport Climbing. Although my role was mostly consultative, I am extremely proud of the work. The document is the foundation for athlete development in both recreational and competitive indoor climbing. Climb for Life [...]

By |2018-01-07T12:55:46+00:00January 7th, 2018|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric testing and PAP for coaches.

Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric Testing and PAP for Coaches. Camp4 Human Performance Tyler Nelson DC, MS, CSCS @C4HP Introduction: Performance at the crag or in a competition is a direct representation of athlete preparation. Preparation includes both the cognitive and physical capacities of an athlete. Unfortunately it is hard to [...]

By |2018-01-01T09:07:20+00:00January 1st, 2018|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Pulley Injuries Explained – Part 2

Pulley Injuries Explained: Part 2 You May Not Need Surgery In Part 1 of this article, we discussed the anatomy of finger pulleys, the biomechanics behind our flexor tendon/pulley system, and the implications these factors have on our climbing. In Part 2, I’d like to shed some light on pulley injury specifics, [...]

By |2018-10-27T11:12:20+00:00December 3rd, 2017|Uncategorized|2 Comments

Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries

Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries Written by William Bateman Edited by: Nina Tappin For a long time I dropped things, mostly smaller items like car keys. I also suffered from phantom pains. The tip of my finger itched even though it wasn’t there. - Tommy Caldwell, The Push Image from www.quora.com [...]

By |2017-11-07T18:11:03+00:00November 5th, 2017|Uncategorized|2 Comments

Pulley Injuries Explained – Part 1

Pulley Injuries Explained - Part 1 of 2 by Matt DeStefano If you’re a climber, chances are you have either had a finger injury, or at least you know someone who has had one. According to the research literature, namely Doctors Volker Schöffl1, Alex Folkl, and Erik Gerdes, finger injuries are the number [...]

By |2017-08-29T18:16:45+00:00August 6th, 2017|Uncategorized|2 Comments

Hang Right For Shoulder Health

Hang Right For Shoulder Health Esther Smith, a Doctor of Physical Therapy and owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City, wrote a great article on how to hang right when climbing and training. She provides a detailed case report of her treatment of Babsi Zangerl, a Black Diamond athlete, during [...]

By |2017-07-23T11:09:41+00:00July 13th, 2017|Uncategorized|0 Comments