Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries

Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries Written by William Bateman Edited by: Nina Tappin For a long time I dropped things, mostly smaller items like car keys. I also suffered from phantom pains. The tip of my finger itched even though it wasn’t there. - Tommy Caldwell, The Push Image from [...]

By | 2017-11-07T18:11:03+00:00 November 5th, 2017|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Pulley Injuries Explained – Part 1

Pulley Injuries Explained - Part 1 of 2 by Matt DeStefano If you’re a climber, chances are you have either had a finger injury, or at least you know someone who has had one. According to the research literature, namely Doctors Volker Schöffl1, Alex Folkl, and Erik Gerdes, finger injuries are the number [...]

By | 2017-08-29T18:16:45+00:00 August 6th, 2017|Uncategorized|2 Comments

Hang Right For Shoulder Health

Hang Right For Shoulder Health Esther Smith, a Doctor of Physical Therapy and owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City, wrote a great article on how to hang right when climbing and training. She provides a detailed case report of her treatment of Babsi Zangerl, a Black Diamond athlete, during [...]

By | 2017-07-23T11:09:41+00:00 July 13th, 2017|Uncategorized|0 Comments

More For Less: What Every Climber Wants

More For Less: What Every Climber Wants Using Blood Flow Restriction Training To Improve Forearm Capacity Tyler Nelson DC, MS, CSCS Camp4 Human Performance Background Blood flow restriction training (BFRT) is a technique originally created in Japan under the title Kaatsu by Yoshiaki Sato in the 1970’s. Since that time the [...]

By | 2017-07-20T11:27:06+00:00 July 8th, 2017|Uncategorized|2 Comments

How Shoulder Mobility Affects Your Climbing

How Shoulder Mobility Affects Your Climbing Do you have pain between your shoulder blades after climbing? Do you have trouble reaching your arms fully overhead? Do you find yourself slouching with your shoulders rotated inward?   You might have poor shoulder mobility. The areas that generally limit shoulder mobility in climbers are: The [...]

By | 2017-07-08T13:12:59+00:00 July 8th, 2017|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Thoracic Mobility For Climbers

Thoracic Spine Mobility for Climbers By Matt DeStefano Rationale: In order to climb at your highest level and pain-free, you must have adequate mobility throughout your body. This article speaks specifically to mobility in the thoracic spine. The thoracic spine is the group of spinal segments below your neck and above your low [...]

By | 2017-07-20T11:25:59+00:00 June 4th, 2017|Uncategorized|3 Comments