Long Term Athlete Development

Long Term Athlete Development I am honored to be involved in the development of Canada's Long Term Athlete Development document for Sport Climbing. Although my role was mostly consultative, I am extremely proud of the work. The document is the foundation for athlete development in both recreational and competitive indoor climbing. Climb for Life [...]

By | 2018-01-07T12:55:46+00:00 January 7th, 2018|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric testing and PAP for coaches.

Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric Testing and PAP for Coaches. Camp4 Human Performance Tyler Nelson DC, MS, CSCS @C4HP Introduction: Performance at the crag or in a competition is a direct representation of athlete preparation. Preparation includes both the cognitive and physical capacities of an athlete. Unfortunately it is hard to [...]

By | 2018-01-01T09:07:20+00:00 January 1st, 2018|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries

Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries Written by William Bateman Edited by: Nina Tappin For a long time I dropped things, mostly smaller items like car keys. I also suffered from phantom pains. The tip of my finger itched even though it wasn’t there. - Tommy Caldwell, The Push Image from www.quora.com [...]

By | 2017-11-07T18:11:03+00:00 November 5th, 2017|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Pulley Injuries Explained – Part 1

Pulley Injuries Explained - Part 1 of 2 by Matt DeStefano If you’re a climber, chances are you have either had a finger injury, or at least you know someone who has had one. According to the research literature, namely Doctors Volker Schöffl1, Alex Folkl, and Erik Gerdes, finger injuries are the number [...]

By | 2017-08-29T18:16:45+00:00 August 6th, 2017|Uncategorized|2 Comments

Hang Right For Shoulder Health

Hang Right For Shoulder Health Esther Smith, a Doctor of Physical Therapy and owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City, wrote a great article on how to hang right when climbing and training. She provides a detailed case report of her treatment of Babsi Zangerl, a Black Diamond athlete, during [...]

By | 2017-07-23T11:09:41+00:00 July 13th, 2017|Uncategorized|0 Comments

More For Less: What Every Climber Wants

More For Less: What Every Climber Wants Using Blood Flow Restriction Training To Improve Forearm Capacity Tyler Nelson DC, MS, CSCS Camp4 Human Performance Background Blood flow restriction training (BFRT) is a technique originally created in Japan under the title Kaatsu by Yoshiaki Sato in the 1970’s. Since that time the [...]

By | 2017-07-20T11:27:06+00:00 July 8th, 2017|Uncategorized|2 Comments

How Shoulder Mobility Affects Your Climbing

How Shoulder Mobility Affects Your Climbing Do you have pain between your shoulder blades after climbing? Do you have trouble reaching your arms fully overhead? Do you find yourself slouching with your shoulders rotated inward?   You might have poor shoulder mobility. The areas that generally limit shoulder mobility in climbers are: The [...]

By | 2017-07-08T13:12:59+00:00 July 8th, 2017|Uncategorized|0 Comments