S3, E4: Energy System Training – Steve Smith

In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve Smith discuss the complexities of energy system training for climbers, particularly focusing on how to effectively train with limited resources. They discuss the importance of understanding muscle contractions, the various energy systems involved in climbing, and practical training protocols that can be implemented off the wall. The conversation emphasizes the need for a personalized approach to training, including a needs analysis to determine the most effective training components for individual climbers. The episode concludes with key takeaways on how to optimize climbing fitness while minimizing the risk of injury.

Steve Smith’s Bio

Steve Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, who is a board certified specialist in Orthopaedic Physical Therapy, and Strength & Conditioning. He has been climbing since 2006, and has a particular interest in specialized sport training and rehabilitation, using science and evidence-based practice to improve performance and return patients to their highest level of athletic abilities. Steve works in an academic Orthopedic and Sports Medicine setting and, in his free time, acts as a training and injury risk reduction consultant to local competitive and recreational climbers. He currently lives in Huntington, WV with his wife, son and daughter.

Takeaways

  • Energy system training can be simplified for practical application.
  • Limited resources can still yield effective training results.
  • Understanding muscle contractions is crucial for climbers.
  • Different energy systems play distinct roles in climbing performance.
  • Training intensity impacts both strength and endurance fibers.
  • A needs analysis helps tailor training to individual climbers.
  • Max strength training is essential for all climbers.
  • Aerobic capacity training may not be necessary for all climbers.
  • Training smarter can lead to better performance with less time.
  • Regular assessment of training effectiveness is vital.


Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts!

Timecodes

  • 00:00 Introduction to Energy System Training
  • 04:30 Understanding Limited Resources in Training
  • 10:17 Muscle Contractions and Their Importance
  • 17:03 Energy Systems Overview
  • 24:33 Components of Energy System Training
  • 29:56 Practical Applications of Training
  • 33:54 Understanding Climbing Intensity and Training
  • 39:36 Exploring Strength Endurance and Pump Training
  • 47:29 Assessing and Programming for Climbing Training
  • 50:48 Needs Analysis in Climbing Training
  • 01:03:34 Key Takeaways for Effective Climbing Training

If you would like to listen to the entire interview with Steve Smith, check out the podcast. If you want to watch the interview, click the YouTube link or any of the timestamps above. If you would like to read quick sample of a concise recap of key interview topics and questions, check out the excerpt from the interview below.

Maximizing Energy System Training for Climbers with Limited Resources

What inspired this discussion on energy system training?

The goal was to simplify the complex topic of energy system training and offer actionable guidance for climbers, especially those with limited resources like time, money, or access to climbing facilities. Whether you’re a former dirtbag turned parent or stationed far from a gym, this is about training effectively with what you have.

Understanding Energy Systems in Climbing

Can you break down the key components of energy system training?

There are four main components:

  1. Anaerobic Power: Pure strength and power.
  2. Anaerobic Capacity: Strength endurance, also called power endurance.
  3. Aerobic Power: The endurance portion of strength endurance training.
  4. Aerobic Capacity: Long-duration endurance, like all-day climbing.

Each energy system dominates based on the duration and intensity of effort, but they all overlap to some extent.

How does muscle contraction play into climbing?

Climbing is predominantly an isometric sport. Your muscles perform:

  • Concentric contractions (e.g., pulling yourself up).
  • Isometric contractions (e.g., holding a position on the wall).
  • Eccentric contractions (e.g., lowering yourself).

Forearms sustain rhythmic isometric contractions, often for 7–8.5 seconds per hold, depending on the climber’s gender.

The Importance of Training Intensity

Why is intensity so crucial in training?

Training at higher intensities recruits both endurance (slow-twitch) and strength (fast-twitch) fibers. Lower intensity only engages endurance fibers, limiting gains in strength and overall climbing performance.

How does this affect endurance?

Improved maximum strength reduces the effort required for sub-maximal tasks, delaying fatigue and enhancing climbing endurance.

Practical Application: Training Protocols

How can climbers train each energy system with limited resources?

Here’s a summary of training goals and sensations:

  1. Anaerobic Power (Pull/Jump)
    1. Focus: Max strength or explosive power.
    2. Duration: 1–12 seconds.
    3. Sensation: High effort but not pumped.
    4. Example: Max hangboard pulls or explosive grip exercises.
  2. Anaerobic Capacity (Powered Out): 
    1. Focus: Short-term strength endurance.
    2. Duration: 12 seconds–2 minutes.
    3. Sensation: Fatigue without significant pump.
  3. Aerobic Power (Pumped):
    1. Focus: Long-term strength endurance.
    2. Duration: 2–10 minutes.
    3. Sensation: Forearms feel pumped and fatigued.
  4. Aerobic Capacity (Bored):
    1. Focus: All-day endurance.
    2. Duration: Over 2 minutes.
    3. Sensation: Low-intensity but sustained work, like multi-pitch climbing

Tools and Assessment

What tools can climbers use for training and assessment?

A hangboard is invaluable. For measuring intensity:

  • Use added or subtracted weights to estimate max strength.
  • A dynamometer, such as a Tindeq or G-Strength, provides real-time feedback, making it easier to fine-tune your training.

How do you determine your needs?

Perform a needs analysis. For instance:

  • Boulders might skip aerobic capacity training.
  • Sport climbers could focus on anaerobic capacity for endurance routes.

Addressing Controversies: ARC Training

Is ARC training necessary?

While it can help improve aerobic capacity, ARC training often involves low-intensity climbing for 20–45 minutes, which can lead to skin wear, fatigue, and overuse injuries. Many climbers may achieve similar benefits with more targeted, high-intensity training.

Key Takeaways for Climbers

What are the main lessons from this discussion?

Effective energy system training doesn’t require extensive time or equipment. With a hangboard and strategic programming, climbers can:

  1. Build maximum strength to reduce fatigue during climbs.
  2. Target specific energy systems based on personal needs.
  3. Train smarter by focusing on intensity over volume.

Where can listeners learn more?

For more guidance, contact Steve Smith via email at steven.smith.dpt@gmail.com or follow him on Instagram at @themac.pt

Any additional resources?

Yes, see below for a downloadable guide on how to use energy systems for climbing training:

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  • Disclaimer – The content here is designed for information & education purposes only and the content is not intended for medical advice.

Learn More About Rock Climbing Injuries

Looking for more information on preventing and rehabilitating climbing injuries? Check out the book “Climb Injury-Free” and the “Rock Rehab Videos”

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