Injury Prevention for Climbers
Collateral Ligament Sprain
The finger joints are supported laterally on each side by collateral ligaments. They stabilize the finger from side-to-side movement. When you climb, your hand and fingers are placed in aggressive positions that may put increased force into the ligament, causing it to tear. You should be aware of dangerous movements that can increase the stress on the collateral ligaments and eventually lead to pain and injury. These movements include finger locks in thin cracks, slanted far-to-reach pockets and dynamic movements upward from a gaston or sidepull.
Instructions for a Ring Finger Collateral Ligament Sprain
A. Place a rubber-band around the outside of the joint of the injured finger.
B. Press your finger against the resistance of the rubber-band.
C. Place a rubber-band around the inside of your injured finger.
D. Press your finger against the resistance of the rubber-band.
What It Does
Increases the strength of the muscles on the inside and outside of the finger.
3 sets of 15 repetitions with a 5-second isometric hold once per day.