The biceps muscle is a major muscle in the upper arm that flexes your elbow and rotates your lower arm. While climbing, you are constantly pulling and overworking the biceps. The repetitive action of constantly pulling can lead to degeneration of the biceps tendon as it inserts into the bone below your elbow. You should be aware of dangerous movements that can increase the stress on the biceps and eventually lead to pain and injury. Such movements include climbing with bent arms and straight legs and overusing underclings and sidepulls.
A. Wrap a full-length resistance band around your torso. Stand 6 inches away from a wall with both elbows bent to 90 degrees and your little fingers resting against the wall.
B. Press your little finger into the wall as you slide your hands upwards as your arms straighten overhead. Keep pressing your shoulder blades down and back.
Sasha DiGiulian band exercise A
Sasha DiGiulian band exercise B
How to Wrap the Band
Sasha DiGiulian Band Wrap A
Sasha DiGiulian Band Wrap B
Sasha DiGiulian Band Wrap C
What It Does
Most biceps injuries occur from repetitive overuse of the muscle. This is why early training focuses on strengthening the antagonist muscle of the biceps, which is the triceps. This exercise trains a movement pattern that uses the triceps muscle instead of the biceps muscle during an overhead reach.
3 sets of 10 repetitions once per day.
Learn More About Rock Climbing Injuries
Looking for more information on preventing and rehabilitating climbing injuries? Check out the book “Climb Injury-Free” and the “Rock Rehab Videos”