Overuse of finger and wrist flexors
Question:
Dr. Jared
I recently read your article in the August issue of Dpm Climbing Magazine. I am a 30 year old novice climber. The reason I write you this morning is that I have enjoyed climbing but I have had to take weeks or months between climbing sessions to let my hands recover. The major symptom is ,an hour before bed and when I wake up in the morning, stiffness in the DIP and PIP joints of my middle finger and ring finger on both hands. Additional to stiffness sometimes  I experience a slight itchy or burning sensation. infrequently I suffer the same problem in my index finger but never in my pinky.
I work in a wood/metal working shop and my major hobby is mountain biking. I have seen two doctors, the sports medicine doctor believes I am developing arthritis. Whereas the general practitioner believes I have just over used my hands and I need to let them rest.
Something I have noticed recently is that when I am asleep I tend to curl my hands and fingers toward my elbows. Which causes my hands to go numb. So when I read your article about Carpal Tunnel Syndrome I became curious if there was a connection or something else going on.
I would really appreciate your feedback on the problem.
Justin A.
Answer:
Climbing, mountain biking and metal working all share the commonality of constant and repetitive use of your wrist and finger flexors. Â It is no wonder that you call asleep with your wrists and fingers curled. Â This is likely from the shortening of these muscles and weakness of the muscles on the opposite side that extend your fingers and wrist back. Â It is likely your carpal tunnel is compressed at night when sleeping, causing numbness, but that is not the root of your problem. Â You will need to stretch out the muscles in the front of your hand and fingers and strengthen the ones in the back to counteract the overuse. Â It is possible that it is early stage arthritis because of the morning stiffness, but this can be prevented. Â I have attached some information that can help you and some tips with hand position while climbing.
Dr. Jared Vagy
“The Climbing Doctor”
- Disclaimer – The content here is designed for information & education purposes only and the content is not intended for medical advice.
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