Capsulitis and Synovitis Climbing – Swelling of the Fingers
Saturday morning—finally time to get back on your project. You stretch out in bed and slowly open your hands. They feel stiff and sore, you look at your swollen finger joints wondering what's going on. For the last couple of months, you’ve ramped up your training to be ready for your project. You’ve noticed [...]
Optimal Training and Injury Prevention Techniques for Climbers with a Full-time Schedule
By Andrew McClure PT, DPT We all wish we could climb as much and as hard as the pros. However, most of us have to maintain a full-time schedule with jobs, family, school, and the other challenges of life. It can be tough to stay in shape, let alone see improvements. Knowing optimal strategies for [...]
Stronger Hips for Injury Prevention and Climbing Performance
When we think about climbing and training, most of the time, you’ll hear “go hangboard and get those fingers strong” or “do some weighted pull ups.” Yet we don’t really hear anything about training our hips, except maybe some stretching. Have you experienced difficulty maintaining tension with your feet constantly slipping during a climb? It [...]
The Importance of Our Center: Outlining Thoracic Mobility and Core Stability
Have you found yourself using one of these ~excuses~ to account for poor climbing, poor performance, or just feeling stagnant? We face many obstacles when it comes to achieving what it is that we want – in personal lives and climbing careers alike.
A Unique Climbing Injury to the Knee –PCL Injuries
Imagine being on a roof climb where you’re bicycling with a hard toe-down and toe-hook to maintain tension in the feet to be able to make the next move; or maybe you need a drop knee to get your hips closer to the wall to match hands; or a heel hook around a volume [...]
Training and Testing in Climbing
A new series of articles has just published on the topics of Training and Testing in Rock Climbing. A description of the free article series is below, along with the entire downloadable PDF. Dr. Jared Vagy DPT has published an article within the series titled "Case Report: Using Telehealth to Treat Triceps Tendinopathy in [...]