About The Climbing Doctor

The Climbing Doctor is passionate about preventing injuries and improving performance for all climbers.

Dolor en los dedos al escalar rocas: capsulitis articular

A Spanish Translation of the research article "Clinical Management of Finger Joint Capsulitis/Synovitis in a Rock Climber." Article written by Dr. Jared Vagy DPT “The Climbing Doctor” and translated by Alita Contreras. Original article below: Click here to read the full article in English Resumen Este estudio de caso presenta a un escalador [...]

By |2024-03-18T13:13:23-07:00November 9th, 2023|Research|0 Comments

S3, E5: Optimizing Motor Control and Motor Learning in Climbing – Joe Manoles

In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Joe Manoles discuss the concepts of motor learning and motor control, particularly in the context of climbing. They explore key terminology, the stages of motor learning, and practical applications for climbers. The discussion also goes into into personal challenges faced by climbers, types of practice and feedback, [...]

By |2024-12-10T02:02:26-08:00September 1st, 2025|Interview|0 Comments

Work Injuries Amongst Routesetters and Occupational Hazards

In this insightful presentation, physiotherapist Evelyne Lajoie explores the occupational risks and injury profiles associated with the profession of routesetting. Using data from a comprehensive web survey, Lajoie discusses common injury patterns, risk factors, and practical recommendations to enhance safety for routesetters. This presentation provides essential information for both employers and routesetters to [...]

By |2024-11-11T20:27:12-08:00August 7th, 2025|Other|0 Comments

S3, E4: Energy System Training – Steve Smith

In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve Smith discuss the complexities of energy system training for climbers, particularly focusing on how to effectively train with limited resources. They discuss the importance of understanding muscle contractions, the various energy systems involved in climbing, and practical training protocols that can be implemented off the wall. [...]

By |2024-12-14T21:07:53-08:00July 1st, 2025|Interview|0 Comments

Scapholunate Ligament Injury – Case Study and Return to Climbing Protocol

This presentation presents a detailed case study on a scapholunate ligament injury, providing a comprehensive look at the anatomy, biomechanics, injury history, rehabilitation protocol, and the climber’s return to sport. Led by Rachel Rubin-Sarganis and Waldo Cheung, both highly qualified physical therapists with advanced degrees, this session explores the unique challenges of treating [...]

By |2024-11-11T20:27:59-08:00June 7th, 2025|Wrist and Hand|0 Comments

S3, E2: Ankle Sprain Rehab for Rock Climbers – Nicholas Hedges

In this conversation, Dr. Nick Hedges discusses the importance of the lower body, specifically the ankle, in climbing. He highlights the prevalence of ankle injuries in climbing and the potential consequences of ankle sprains. Dr. Hedges provides self-assessment techniques to determine ankle susceptibility and reduce the risk of injury. He also explains how [...]

By |2024-12-10T02:03:36-08:00March 1st, 2025|Interview|0 Comments

S3, E1: TFCC injury – A Common Wrist Pain in Climbers -Kimmy Wiley

In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. Kimmy shares her [...]

By |2024-12-10T02:03:58-08:00January 1st, 2025|Interview|0 Comments

S2, E6: Training With Your Cycle – Katrina Wong

This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, [...]

By |2024-12-10T02:00:23-08:00November 1st, 2024|Interview|0 Comments
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