Our fingers bear considerable force while climbing. Yet, as we focus on strength and technique through climbing and fingerboarding, we often overlook the critical aspect of finger health. Fortunately, there are effective methods we can incorporate into our routines to help prioritize finger health and avoid finger injuries as climbers. Here, we present three techniques that are extremely beneficial for climbers looking to sustain finger health, encompassing soft tissue treatment to targeted muscle strengthening exercises of supporting musculature in the hand.

Finger scraping, a soft tissue treatment method, holds immense benefits for climbers, particularly those grappling with chronic finger injuries or seeking daily maintenance. The technique involves applying pressure and scraping along the skin of the fingers to enhance circulation and relieve tension in the muscles and connective tissues. Here’s a breakdown of three different tools used for finger scraping:

• Rose Quartz or Jade: Ideal for sensitive skin, offering gentle pressure but may lack effectiveness in targeting deeper tissues.
• Fiberglass/Nylon: Lightweight and durable, striking a balance between firm pressure and gentleness. Suitable for regular maintenance but may not penetrate as deeply as stainless-steel tools.
• Stainless Steel: Excellent for deep tissue work, providing firm pressure. However, it requires skillful application to avoid discomfort or bruising, and it’s typically more expensive.

Choosing the right scraping tool depends on factors such as treatment intensity, skin sensitivity, and personal comfort. Experiment with different tools to find what works best for you.

While climbers often focus on strengthening their finger flexors, the palmer interossei muscles, crucial for lateral finger control during gripping, are frequently neglected. Incorporating exercises targeting these muscles can lead to a more balanced grip and enhanced stability. Here are two exercises using pom poms for resistance:

• Pom Pom Chair Grip: Place a pom pom between each pair of fingers, grip the edge of a chair firmly, and hold for 7-15 seconds. Complete 6 sets to strengthen the muscles between your fingers.

Tendon glide exercises play a crucial role in improving flexibility and glide of the tendons in the fingers. While most climbers are familiar with standard tendon glides, incorporating advanced variations can further enhance tendon excursion. One such exercise involves using a double length sling to fix the wrist into extension, elongating the tendons as they cross the wrist joint. Here’s how to perform the exercise:

• Flat Fist: Start with fingers folded into your palm.
• Full Fist: Pull fingers toward your knuckles.
• Hook Fist: Roll fingers into a claw.
• Straight Fingers: Extend fingers fully open.

Maintaining finger health is crucial for climbers. By integrating techniques such as finger scraping, targeted muscle strengthening, and advanced tendon glides into your training regimen, you can ensure that your fingers remain strong, agile, and resistant of injury! Remember to listen to your body, gradually progress in intensity, and prioritize consistency in your finger care routine.