S4, E1, Shoulder Hypermobility – Stephen Kiraly

If you would like to listen to the entire interview with Stephen Kiraly, check out the podcast. If you want to watch the interview, click the YouTube link or any of the timestamps above. If you would like to read quick sample of a concise recap of key interview topics and questions, check out the excerpt from the interview below.

Shoulder Hypermobility in Climbers: A Practical Q&A with Stephen Kiraly

Can you briefly introduce yourself?

I’m Stephen Kiraly, a third-year physical therapy student at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. I’m originally from Vancouver, Washington, and I’ve been climbing for a little over three years. What started as casual bouldering quickly turned into a full obsession, including sport, lead, and recently trad climbing. Alongside climbing, I’ve developed a strong interest in understanding climbing-related injuries and performance from a physical therapy perspective.

What is shoulder hypermobility, in simple terms?

Shoulder hypermobility simply means that the shoulder joint moves beyond the normal expected range of motion. “Hyper” means more, and “mobility” refers to movement. In this context, the ball-and-socket joint of the shoulder allows more motion than is typically considered normal.

How can a climber tell if they have shoulder hypermobility?

The most straightforward way is by comparing your shoulder range of motion to normal reference values. For example, lifting your arm out to the side and overhead should bring your arm in line with your body at about 180 degrees. If you can move significantly past that position without forcing it, you may have some degree of hypermobility.

Another simple screen is shoulder rotation while lying on your back. With your elbow bent to 90 degrees and your arm lifted so the elbow is level with your shoulder, rotate your forearm toward the floor while keeping your shoulder from shifting forward. Touching the floor easily can indicate more motion than expected.

It’s important to note that these are rough self-checks, not diagnostic tests. A physical therapist can perform more accurate assessments to determine whether the motion is truly excessive or simply compensated through other joints.

Is shoulder hypermobility something you’re born with, or can it develop over time?

Both are possible. Some people are born with generalized joint hypermobility due to connective tissue characteristics. This can be associated with conditions such as joint hypermobility syndrome or other inherited connective tissue disorders.

Hypermobility can also develop over time, especially in climbers. Repeatedly loading the shoulder in extreme positions can cause the nervous system to tolerate more stretch and the ligaments to become more compliant. Over years of climbing, the shoulder may gradually adapt to larger ranges of motion.

Trauma can also play a role. A shoulder dislocation or subluxation may leave one shoulder more mobile than the other.

What’s the difference between hypermobility and shoulder instability?

This distinction is critical. Hypermobility refers to excess motion without a loss of control and usually without pain. Instability involves a loss of control of the joint, often due to damage to stabilizing structures like the labrum or ligaments, and is more likely to be painful.

Someone can be hypermobile without being unstable, but hypermobility can increase the risk of developing instability if the shoulder is repeatedly overloaded without adequate muscular control.

Are there clinical tests used to assess shoulder hypermobility or instability?

Yes. Physical therapists use a variety of tests that look for excessive joint translation or movement beyond normal limits. Many of these tests were originally designed to assess instability, but they can also highlight hypermobility when excessive motion is present without pain.

Examples include tests that apply gentle traction to the shoulder to observe how much the joint translates, or positions that stress the shoulder in controlled ways. These should be performed by a trained professional, as incorrect testing can be uncomfortable or misleading.

Are there advantages to being hypermobile as a climber?

Absolutely. Hypermobility can be a major asset in climbing. Increased shoulder range of motion can allow access to holds that would otherwise be unreachable and enable creative body positions on the wall.

Elite climbers often display extreme ranges of motion, and shoulder hypermobility can contribute to efficiency and success in certain styles of climbing. It is not inherently a problem.

What are the potential downsides of shoulder hypermobility?

The primary risk is progression toward instability. When the shoulder is repeatedly placed in extreme positions, the passive stabilizers—ligaments and the labrum—can become overloaded. If the muscles responsible for stabilizing the shoulder do not adequately control the joint, this can lead to pain, tissue injury, or instability.

In other words, hypermobility without control increases injury risk.

If a climber is hypermobile, how can they reduce injury risk?

Education is the foundation. Understanding what hypermobility is and how it affects your climbing allows you to make smarter training and movement choices.

From a rehab and performance perspective, the approach can be thought of as a progression:

1. Unload when necessary – If pain or irritation is present, temporary unloading strategies such as taping can help limit excessive motion.
2. Optimize mobility elsewhere – Gaining motion from adjacent regions reduces demand on the hypermobile shoulder.
3. Build strength and control – Strengthening the muscles that actively stabilize the shoulder is essential.
4. Refine movement patterns – Using efficient technique distributes forces across the whole body rather than overloading the shoulder.

How effective is shoulder taping for hypermobility?

Taping can be useful as a short-term strategy. When applied correctly, kinesiology tape can limit end-range motion and provide proprioceptive feedback, helping the climber avoid excessive positions.

Taping is not a long-term solution, but it can be helpful during periods of higher load, return to climbing after irritation, or while strength and control are being developed.

Why include mobility exercises for someone who already has too much motion?

The key is where the mobility is targeted. Mobility exercises should focus on areas that are often stiff in climbers, such as the thoracic spine.

Improving thoracic spine mobility allows climbers to reach and rotate through the upper back instead of relying solely on the shoulder joint. This reduces stress on a hypermobile shoulder without increasing its range of motion.

Common examples include cat–cow and thread-the-needle exercises.

How important is rotator cuff strength for hypermobile shoulders?

Rotator cuff strength is critical. The rotator cuff muscles act as dynamic stabilizers, keeping the ball of the shoulder centered in the socket during movement.

If the ligaments and labrum are more lax, the shoulder becomes more dependent on muscular control. Strengthening the rotator cuff helps compensate for passive laxity and reduces the risk of instability.

What types of strengthening exercises are most useful?

Resistance bands are particularly effective because they allow training in climbing-specific positions, such as with the arm elevated. Exercises performed with the shoulder and elbow at 90 degrees closely mimic climbing demands.

It’s also beneficial to train these muscles in multiple positions, since climbing places the shoulder in a wide variety of angles.

Are isometric exercises helpful for shoulder stability?

Yes. Isometric exercises, such as holding a kettlebell in an elevated arm position while walking, challenge shoulder stability without excessive joint motion.

Gripping the weight firmly further enhances shoulder stability through neuromuscular connections between the hand and shoulder.

How does movement technique factor into shoulder health?

Movement quality is just as important as strength. Certain climbing moves, such as dynos or weight shifts on steep terrain, can place extreme demands on the shoulder.

In dynos, failing to engage the rotator cuff and scapular muscles before loading the arm can shift excessive force onto passive structures. Similarly, cutting feet or loading a single shoulder without distributing force through the legs and trunk increases injury risk.

Efficient movement spreads load across the entire body rather than concentrating it in one joint.

What is the biggest takeaway for climbers with shoulder hypermobility?

Hypermobility is neither good nor bad—it is a trait. It can be a powerful advantage when paired with strength, control, and awareness.

Climbers should focus on:

• Developing strong dynamic stabilizers
• Improving mobility in adjacent regions
• Refining technique to distribute forces
• Recognizing when the shoulder is being overloaded

With the right approach, shoulder hypermobility can enhance performance rather than limit it.

Where can we find more information?

Reach out to Stephen at skiraly8@yahoo.com or on Instagram @zoliclimbs if you’d like to connect about climbing, rehab, or life as a future climbing-focused PT.