This is Part 2 and 3 of a 3-Part series on using the Rock Rehab Pyramid to systematically treat climbing injuries. The goal of the Rock Rehab Pyramid is to take a climber from the pain, inflammation and tissue overload stage to gain full mobility, strength and eventually pain-free climbing movement.

In this Episode, “The Climbing Doctor” sat down with Kris Hampton at the Climbing Wall Association Summit to go over the third and fourth level of the pyramid. If you have the time, first listen to Episode 1 first to learn about the mobility level of the pyramid and then check out this episode.

The discussion focused around the fingers and used several examples of ways to strengthen and improve movement patterns to prevent finger injuries. These concepts were then expanded so that you can apply them to all body regions.

The below topics are discussed in the episode:

• How swelling affects strength and whether it is good or bad
• Why most climbers are performing the wrong injury prevention exercises
• New methods to train finger strength to prevent injury
• The most common exercises that climbers perform incorrectly
• How often to perform antagonist muscle performance exercises
• A systematic way to introduce finger injuries to sustained loads

The goal of this episode was to dive deep into the specifics of muscle performance. To offer new training methods and research-based concepts to improve your injury prevention program.

The classic concepts of strength, power and hypertrophy training are challenged. These theories are replaced by a more practical approach. Think about the training exercises that you do in the gym. How many reps do you perform? How many sets? What are your hold times? Did you know that these parameters should depend on what type of climber you are? Meaning that if you are a boulder you will need to train injury prevention exercises much different than if you are a trad climber. This is just one of many examples presented in the episode that will challenge you critically think about your training.

Make sure to check out the Power Company’s Custom Training Plans. They are a great way to train hard with a structure and prevent getting hurt.

Click here to view the Power Company Site