Training Beta Podcast

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About The Episode

In this Episode, “The Climbing Doctor” sat down with Neely Quinn from the Training Beta Podcast to talk about the importance of the hips while climbing and hip injuries.

This in-depth podcast covered a wide range of topics related to the hips and rock climbing.The discussion focused around climbing technique and how hip flexibility can affect climbing movement. Specific examples of climber body types was discussed. For example, the benefits, drawbacks and mechanical advantages when comparing high steps with taller and shorter climbers. Self assessment measures were discussed to teach climbers how to determine if they lack hip flexibility in multiple positions. This included examples of flexibility assessments into a high step position and a frogger (toed out) position on the wall. Specific stretches were addressed related to the failed hip mobility assessments. And movement tips were given to guide climbers who have stiff hips into strategies to climb more efficiently. They discussed at length common hip injuries and appropriate ways to reduce the risk for injuring the hip while climbing.

The below topics are discussed throughout the episode:

  • Why healthy hips are important for climbing
  • What the most common hip injuries are
  • How shoulder pain and hip pain can be related
  • How to tell if hip pain is originating from back
  • Specific stretches for high-stepping
  • What to do about hip injuries

Make sure to check out the Training Beta Webpage. It is packed with information on how to train hard and climb strong.

Click here to view the Training Beta Webpage

See below for additional resources mentioned in the interview that you can use to supplement the podcast. These videos, filmed with Adidas / FiveTen athlete Jon Cardwell, teach you how to assess your hip range of motion specific to climbing and how to improve your hip mobility.

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