In this episode, Neely Quinn interviews “The Climbing Doctor” on the Training Beta Podcast to discuss neck and shoulder injuries.

Concepts discussed are:

• Rock Rehab Pyramid structure
• Mobility, strength, and movement protocols for neck strain
• How to differentiate between joint and muscle stiffness
• Pain management for rotator cuff strain
• How to strengthen your neck and rotator cuff
• How to belay properly to avoid neck strain
• How to self-diagnose for rotator cuff strain

This is a very detailed episode that not only presents climbing specific protocols for neck and shoulder injuries but also discusses the biomechanical source of the injury.

For example, the concept of stretching the neck muscles was brought up. How do you know which muscle in your neck is limiting motion and causing pain? There are two primary muscles that connect from the shoulder blade to the neck; the upper trapezius and the levator scapula.

• If you rotate your head to the left and feel a stretch or pain on your left side, you shrug your shoulders and the stretch or pain goes away – it is likely your left upper trapezius muscle is limiting your motion and causing pain.
• If you rotate your head to the left and feel a stretch or pain on your right side, you shrug your shoulders and the stretch or pain goes away – it is likely your right levator scapula muscle is limiting your motion and causing pain.

Knowing this information not only helps yo diagnosis which muscle is limiting your motion and causing pain but also lets you know exactly which muscle to stretch to rehabilitate your neck pain.

The episode goes in-depth into several similar concepts related to the neck and shoulder to give you the tools to assess and treat your own injuries.

If you enjoy this episode, make sure to check out other Training Beta Podcast Episodes at the link below.

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