Training Beta Podcast

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About The Episode

In this Episode, “The Climbing Doctor” sat down with Neely Quinn from the Training Beta Podcast to talk about how to heal elbow injuries.

The discussion focused around the the elbow and used different examples of ways to unload, mobilize and strengthen the elbow joint. Key movement patterns that stress the elbow were discussed in detail.

A clinical case was introduced about a climber with inside elbow pain. When the climber would move their neck side to side or elevate their shoulder blade, their elbow pain would decrease. It was identified that a nerve mobility deficit of the ulnar nerve was generating their pain. The process of reaching this diagnosis was outlined and several self tests were described so that climbers could asses if they have a similar conditions. Treatment techniques such as ulnar nerve glides were further described and recommended.

The below topics are discussed throughout the episode:

  • How elbow injuries happen
  • What the different elbow injuries are
  • How to figure out what injury you have
  • When to start climbing again
  • How to heal the elbow injury
  • How to avoid elbow injuries in the future

They discussed at length how to make elbow injury prevention exercises more specific for rock climbers.

Make sure to check out the Training Beta Webpage. It is packed with information on how to train hard and climb strong.

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