https://open.spotify.com/episode/0V156K5TvRrauqIWQpCT5B?si=q3WyYXYnSj-APysINmuzqw&nd=1

In this episode, “The Climbing Doctor” joins the Nugget Podcast to dive into an in-depth discussion about capsulitis — a common finger injury among climbers. Dr. Jared Vagy, a physical therapist and passionate climber, explains what capsulitis is, how it develops, ways to prevent it, and the best strategies for recovery if you’re dealing with it.

The timecodes cover topics are discussed throughout the episode:

• 00:00:01 – Intro and welcome
• 00:00:30 – Jared’s background and experience with climbers
• 00:01:15 – Overview of research projects and injury focus
• 00:02:10 – Jared’s topic: Finger capsulitis explained
• 00:05:00 – Causes of finger injuries in climbing
• 00:07:10 – Symptoms and signs of capsulitis
• 00:09:00 – Preventative strategies to protect fingers
• 00:11:15 – Treatment approaches and rehab protocols
• 00:14:00 – Finger taping techniques and supportive tools
• 00:15:45 – Typical recovery timelines
• 00:17:30 – Recommended exercises for healing and strengthening
• 00:20:05 – Common rehab mistakes climbers make
• 00:22:45 – When to seek medical attention
• 00:24:30 – Research insights: how data informs rehab
• 00:26:10 – Jared’s tips on monitoring finger health
• 00:28:00 – Managing inflammation and joint care
• 00:31:30 – Chronic vs acute finger injuries
• 00:34:10 – Adjusting training during recovery
• 00:36:50 – Case studies and real-world examples
• 00:40:15 – Strategies to prevent re-injury
• 00:43:00 – Mobility and strengthening routines
• 00:46:25 – Safely returning to climbing
• 00:50:10 – Misconceptions about finger injuries
• 00:53:40 – Integrating rehab into daily training
• 00:57:15 – Tracking progress and warning signs
• 01:01:00 – How research shapes best practices
• 01:04:25 – Jared’s tips for long-term finger health
• 01:08:10 – Final takeaways on prevention and recovery
• 01:10:00 – Closing thoughts and episode wrap-up

Resources:

• Peer reviewed case study on capsulitis
• How to use a finger trap for capsulitis
• Jared’s book Climb Injury-Free. Order his book here.
• Database of medical providers on Jared’s website

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