Training Beta Podcast

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About The Episode

In this Episode, “The Climbing Doctor” sat down with Neely Quinn from the Training Beta Podcast to talk in-depth about finger injuries in rock climbers.

They cover wide range of topics related to the fingers and rock climbing.The discussion focused around the assessment, diagnoses, and treatment of finger injuries. Talking about the anatomy, the differences between A2 and A4 pulley sprains, utilizing diagnostic imaging to diagnose injuries, using clinical criteria to classify injuries, timelines and milestones for returning to sport and much more.

The below topics are discussed throughout the episode:

  • 40% of climbing injuries are fingers!
  • Most common finger injuries and how they happen
  • Pulleys vs tendons explained
  • How to diagnose finger injuries
  • How new research has affected his protocols
  • What the popping sound is during an injury
  • How long recovery takes
  • Two ways to approach pulley sprains
  • Medications and devices to use to heal
  • What side-to-side pain means
  • Protocol timelines
  • Long-standing finger injuries
  • Using hangboard for recovery

Make sure to check out the Training Beta Webpage. It is packed with information on how to train hard and climb strong.

Click here to view the Training Beta Webpage

See below for additional resources mentioned in the interview that you can use to supplement the podcast.

Climbing Pulley Injury Anatomy and Biomechanics

How to Rehab a Pulley Injury

Additional Resources on Timelines and Stages of Healing

Diagnosis and classification

Return to climbing and hanging timelines

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