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SLAP’d with a Shoulder Injury?

SLAP’d with a Shoulder Injury? Karen Hsu Physical Therapy Karen Hsu, PT, DPT Image: unsplash.com Introduction In recent years, rock climbing as a sport has experienced a large increase in popularity. As more people have started climbing, so have injury rates grown. Today, the nature of these injuries are mostly due to overuse and mostly affect the upper limbs. With increased safety awareness and the [...]

By |July 2nd, 2018|Uncategorized|1 Comment

Low Back Pain and Rock Climbing

A Pain in the Back Karen Hsu Physical Therapy Karen Hsu, PT, DPT unsplash.com Introduction Are you having back pain after climbing for hours on end? Or, maybe you get back pain intermittently when you are in certain positions, after you’ve done multiple sit starts, while bouldering, or high stepping. You are not alone. Low back pain has been identified as the single [...]

By |March 31st, 2018|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Long Term Athlete Development

Long Term Athlete Development I am honored to be involved in the development of Canada's Long Term Athlete Development document for Sport Climbing. Although my role was mostly consultative, I am extremely proud of the work. The document is the foundation for athlete development in both recreational and competitive indoor climbing. Climb for Life was initiated in 2015 to propel the project and the development [...]

By |January 7th, 2018|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric testing and PAP for coaches.

Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric Testing and PAP for Coaches. Camp4 Human Performance Tyler Nelson DC, MS, CSCS @C4HP Introduction: Performance at the crag or in a competition is a direct representation of athlete preparation. Preparation includes both the cognitive and physical capacities of an athlete. Unfortunately it is hard to predict which one is more important on any given day and [...]

By |January 1st, 2018|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Pulley Injuries Explained – Part 2

Pulley Injuries Explained: Part 2 You May Not Need Surgery In Part 1 of this article, we discussed the anatomy of finger pulleys, the biomechanics behind our flexor tendon/pulley system, and the implications these factors have on our climbing. In Part 2, I’d like to shed some light on pulley injury specifics, including the injury grading system and what tissues/structures are affected, and [...]

By |December 3rd, 2017|Uncategorized|2 Comments

Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries

Clarifying the Role of Pain in Injuries Written by William Bateman Edited by: Nina Tappin For a long time I dropped things, mostly smaller items like car keys. I also suffered from phantom pains. The tip of my finger itched even though it wasn’t there. - Tommy Caldwell, The Push Image from www.quora.com It wasn’t that far ago that phantom limb pain was a [...]

By |November 5th, 2017|Uncategorized|2 Comments