INmotion Magazine interviews The University of Southern California's professor Dr. Jared Vagy DPT. The article discusses the physical demands of rock climbing and Dr. Vagy's unique approach to assessing and treating rock climbers.
Vogue magazine published an interesting piece in their fitness section on rock climbing. The Climbing Doctor was quoted in the article saying "There are over 30 muscles in the hand, wrist and fingers alone," explains Jared Vagy - a Los Angeles based physical therapist who specializes in climber "These are essential to grip onto smaller holds."
The biceps muscle flexes your elbow. While climbing, you are constantly pulling and overworking the biceps. This can lead to degeneration of the biceps tendon as it inserts into the bone below your elbow.
The tendons in your fingers are anchored down by pulleys that keep the tendons gliding flush to the bones. Excessive strain on the finger can exerts an outward force on the pulley which may strain or tear it.
The shoulder is made up of four rotator cuff muscles. These muscles act together as a unit to control shoulder motion. Often times there is an imbalance in the strength of the rotator cuff muscles. The external rotator muscles are commonly weaker than the internal rotator muscles. This imbalance over time can lead to a strain of the rotator cuff.
The shoulder is made up of four rotator cuff muscles. These muscles connect the shoulder blade to the arm bone. The rotator cuff muscles act together as a unit to control shoulder motion. You need to strengthen the rotator cuff to prevent muscle strain.