Dynamic Warm-up

A dynamic climbing warm-up is a must. This is the only research proven method to safely warm-up. It increases blood flow to your joints, ligaments, tendons and muscles and prepares you for climbing while mirroring climbing movement.


Core Training For Climbers

Dr. Jared Vagy and Steve Bechtel collaborated on an article that breaks core exercises for climbing into four fundamental rules based on movement. Sasha DiGiulian demonstrates the most effective way to utilize these rules during abdominal training.


Injury Free Movement

When I first started climbing I would spend long days training as hard as possible. I thought for sure my climbing would improve exponentially. But it didn’t. So I trained even harder. Over time, I started feeling some soreness in my shoulder and fingers. I ignored the discomfort and climbed through it. Eventually the soreness [...]


Dear Dr.

A special edition article where DPM converted their "Ask Ed" column to "Ask Dr." To field a question from a reader on how to tape collateral ligament sprains in the finger.


Emerging concepts in injury prevention: Pulley Strain

The 'pop' of a finger is most commonly associated with a fully ruptured pulley, but a silent strain or partial tear can be almost as debilitating, requiring weeks or months of rest and recovery. This is one of the most common climbing injuries, but, luckily, it can be prevented by changing your movement patterns and practicing some targeted physical therapy exercises.


Emerging concepts in injury prevention: Carpal Tunnel Syndrome

Carpal tunnel syndrome used to occur in office workers after spending hours compressing their wrists typing at the computer. Now it is becoming common in climbers because of the repetitive use of the muscles in the front of our wrists to grip holds. These muscles are called our wrist flexors. Underneath the wrist flexors runs an important nerve named the median nerve. Often times when the wrist is in a flexed position repetitively, such as working a climbing project with a lot of slopers, the median nerve can become compressed underneath the muscles in an area called the carpal tunnel. This can cause numbness, pain and weakness in the hand.