Dr. Jared Vagy and Steve Bechtel collaborated on an article that breaks core exercises for climbing into four fundamental rules based on movement. Sasha DiGiulian demonstrates the most effective way to utilize these rules during abdominal training.
Adaptive climbing competitions, known as paraclimbing, have made huge strides nationally and internationally. This table was used in the Adaptive Climbing Book by Paradox Sports to educate competitors on proper movement patterns to reduce injury rates.
When I first started climbing I would spend long days training as hard as possible. I thought for sure my climbing would improve exponentially. But it didn’t. So I trained even harder. Over time, I started feeling some soreness in my shoulder and fingers. I ignored the discomfort and climbed through it. Eventually the soreness [...]
The 'pop' of a finger is most commonly associated with a fully ruptured pulley, but a silent strain or partial tear can be almost as debilitating, requiring weeks or months of rest and recovery. This is one of the most common climbing injuries, but, luckily, it can be prevented by changing your movement patterns and practicing some targeted physical therapy exercises.
Carpal tunnel syndrome used to occur in office workers after spending hours compressing their wrists typing at the computer. Now it is becoming common in climbers because of the repetitive use of the muscles in the front of our wrists to grip holds. These muscles are called our wrist flexors. Underneath the wrist flexors runs an important nerve named the median nerve. Often times when the wrist is in a flexed position repetitively, such as working a climbing project with a lot of slopers, the median nerve can become compressed underneath the muscles in an area called the carpal tunnel. This can cause numbness, pain and weakness in the hand.
This exercise mirrors the position of a reverse outside flag. The resistance is added to coordinate the stability of the balancing leg with the strength of the reaching arm. This trains the entire body with the stability necessary to perform this challenging move.
This dynamic climbing warm-up was published in DPM issue 25. Photos and video are included in this post. Perform this dynamic 5 minute warm-up before you climb to prevent injury and maximize performance.